On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 07:32:41 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 16:43:01 -0700, Norminn wrote:

On 8/22/2013 10:30 AM, RobertMacy wrote:
Ok, guys, here's the challenge: What to do to prevent brush strokes.
And, don't tell me roll it on, because that just makes the 'brush'
strokes different, less controllable, and a giant mess if not careful.


Anything can be a giant mess if not careful...

Problem: After painting, the wall looks like corduroy! Using 'high
quality' paint from Dunn Edwards. I'm fighting brush strokes like gang
busters! Perhaps, it is because the paint is a bit tacky within 10
seconds, and 'dry' to the touch within a minute !! No wonder the paint
can't flatten BEFORE it's dry!

Dry within a minute? Never heard of an interior paint drying that
fast...is this new, fresh, well mixed, applied at temp./surface
according to label instructions? Sun or wind? Interior or exterior?
Drywall?

Actions to date:
I added Floetrol, from Home Depot. That, just changed the color a bit.
and cost a lot. Seems like coating the wall with Floetrol and a little
paint.
I added Glass Cleaner, cheap from Walmart, Not bad, getting closer.

Glass cleaner?!??

Almost works.
Have not tried adding a bit of distilled water, yet.

What does the label say?


Background:
Consider the Dunn Edwards paint left by the painters circa 2010 - use
sparingly, keep for perfect matching, call it Paint A
Also, consider the 'new' Dunn Edwards paint same color, but they admit
to 'slight' change in color nomenclature, call it Paint B.

Dunn Edwards is a brand. Which product(s) are you using?

Smell of Paint A is pungent, rarely have to stir it in its 5 gal bucket,
and NEVER leaves a paint stroke. That stuff comes out FLAT!

Smell of Paint B is pungent [but different], have to stir each day
before use, and ALWAYS leaves paint strokes.


Need a solution:
What I need is a 'wetting' chemical that makes/allows the paint to go
flat BEFORE it dries.
Should I add Jet-Dri?

What does the label say? How does the label dry/cure time compare to
your results? If you have followed the label and results are bad,
contact the paint store (not HD or Lowes, I hope) or the mfg. Let us
know what you find out.

This is interesting:
http://www.dunnedwards.com/Homeowner...x?problemid=19



Glass Cleaner? Back in the 70's then living in California, when water base
was just gaining foothold, I fought brush strokes, gumming, and basically
thought the stuff was some kind of rip off. UNTIL! I used some of our Easy
Off Window Cleaner, came in a yellow can, cleaning glass it never left a
streak, beat Windex hands down [Easy Off corp discontinued the product !!]
Originally, if I found a run [usually around some odd structure shape
where the brush squeegeed too much paint] I was screwed. Had to wait hours
and hours to dry, then sand down and recoat to remove the run. Also,
continually fought 'gumming' could not brush out a 'bad' stroke without
doing damage to the 'wet' paint. Outof desparation, I sprayed EasyOff
Window Cleaner onto the surface and it magically turned the paint back
into a liquid - I could take out a run, flatten a stroke, rework,
essentially do ANYTHING I wanted to the water base paint. I found I could
even rework a surface more than 6 hours after completing. So if I found
something I didn't like, simply spray, paint, and done FLAT!! And that's
when I started going extreme: paint, wet 'n' dry sand, paint and end up
with a surface that looked like commercial grade, formica flat. Within a
year, the wood grain would reassert itself so the look came out beautiful.

It was during this time, I gave up on rollers, the cut in left marks, the
stipple left patterns, and damage from trying to rework a semi-dry area
left 'unfogriveable' cottage cheese on the walls! Absolutely worse than a
brush! Best was an artist air brush and oil base paint, now that was
nice, especially for doing the trim around the windows in the french doors.

Using Dunn Edwards in order to match color already used: Dunn Edwards
W6240 WERSAFLAT base.

For what's it's worth, a 'close' color match from Home Depot yielded the
same battles with brush strokes. Even their high end exterior masonry
paint [different color and over stucco] does the same.

Thank you for that URL. Not a lot of real information there except to
decry competitors 'cheaper' products not working well, EXCEPT, the web
info does say that high temperature and low humidity cause trouble. They
don't give humidity number, but do mention 90 degrees, I assume that's
Fahrenheit.

Interior home is anywhere from 82 to 89 degrees [also Fahrenheit] and
being in the desert, humidity is usually in the 10-16% ranges, plus run a
bit of AIR and probably even lower.

Ok, so last night I just poured in the water to thin [guess at less than
10% increase in volume] until the stirring stick has run-off like low-fat
milk. Painted, and can verify VERY thin, because left drops on the floor
EVERYWHERE about every 4 inches. STILL VERY DISAPPOINTING! Dried more
slowly, took around 10 minutes or less to be able to touch the surfaces.
But the results were just 'less' corduroy.

I wish I knew what the professional people had done to that paint. Can't
locate people with all those realestate bubble bursting bankruptcies. Know
they sprayed it on. Oddly that paint which leaves almost no brush strokes
does not seem to need a lot of stirring, nor does it drip off the brush,
just 'miracle' stuff.


I need a chemical wetting agent that keeps this paint from drying out too
fast.
I think you need a better brush. - a good polyester and nylon brush
with flagged or split ends.

If you are using a natural bristle brush you will NEVER get a decent
job with latex.