This is a beer faucet wrench:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/m...5/k/0/k080.jpg

Note that the short pin in the curved end of the wrench engages a hole in the beer faucet collar in a way similar to the way rebars engage the holes in the torsion spring knuckle.

Would taking an old torsion spring knuckle down to any ornamental iron shop and having them make two X-tra large beer faucet wrenches for you out of 1/2 inch rebar work?

I'm thinking you can turn the torsion spring knuckle with the straight end of one X-tra large beer faucet wrench however far it takes to get a good grip on the next hole with the curved end of the other X-tra large beer faucet wrench.

It's not absolutely necessary to have the exact number of turns of preload on the torsion springs. All that's necessary is that the preload is not so much that the preload won't allow the door to descend all the way down under it's own weight, or not so little that the weight of the door makes it hard for you to open it by yourself. Anything in between will work fine.

So, if your door isn't going all the way down by itself, unwind the spring a quarter or half turn. If you find the door hard to raise, put another quarter or half turn into the spring.

Just remember this: Keep your head and face out of the plane that the winding bars would swing in if they slipped out of the torsion spring winding knuckle or you lost your grip on them.