Hoyt Weathers wrote in
:

"patriarch " wrote:

sniped

I think that the router method is covered in one of Doug Stowe's box
making books, as well as in Gary Rogowski's Joinery book in the new
Taunton Complete Illustrated Guide series. I'd go look it up, but
those volumes are boxed right now, until I finish the new bookshelves
for the den.

It takes a standard router table and fence to do this safely, in my
opinion. Yours may be up to it, but you'd have to be the judge.
Essentially, you are making the inverse of the cut that the DT bit
cut in the miter corner, so you want to use the same bit.

Square up a piece of the key stock on your TS, then set your table to
cut the first side of the key stock. The cut will be less than full
height of the key stock, and look somewhat like the number 7. The
excess height is important for holding the stock safely, and guiding
against the fence, so don't trim it until the last. Now turn the
stock around, adjust your fence for a light cut, and cut the '7'
again. Sneak up on the fence adjustments, and take light passes,
until your key stock fits your miter dovetail slot.

Or you can do this with hand tools. That's how I often make the key
stock for the mitered boxes I build. There's just not enough gain to
be had in the setting up of all of the machines to do a small batch.
The work is quiet, and, while I HAVE cut myself with a sharp plane
iron, it only took a bandaid and a day to heal.

Patriarch,
enjoying the quiet

Thank you Patriarch. You helped me a lot. I only need to do a 7 cut on
*both* sides of the work piece with the TS. Or I could just use a the
same 1/4" dovetail router bit I use to cut the the opening, flip the
stock and do it again. That should work - perhaps.

Hoyt W.


I was thinking the router method. I haven't tried the tablesaw approach,
but I consider the router to be somewhat more precise when I'm nudging a
piece to a very close fit.

But yeah, that's the ticket.

Patriarch