"patriarch " wrote:

sniped

I think that the router method is covered in one of Doug Stowe's box making
books, as well as in Gary Rogowski's Joinery book in the new Taunton
Complete Illustrated Guide series. I'd go look it up, but those volumes
are boxed right now, until I finish the new bookshelves for the den.

It takes a standard router table and fence to do this safely, in my
opinion. Yours may be up to it, but you'd have to be the judge.
Essentially, you are making the inverse of the cut that the DT bit cut in
the miter corner, so you want to use the same bit.

Square up a piece of the key stock on your TS, then set your table to cut
the first side of the key stock. The cut will be less than full height of
the key stock, and look somewhat like the number 7. The excess height is
important for holding the stock safely, and guiding against the fence, so
don't trim it until the last. Now turn the stock around, adjust your fence
for a light cut, and cut the '7' again. Sneak up on the fence adjustments,
and take light passes, until your key stock fits your miter dovetail slot.

Or you can do this with hand tools. That's how I often make the key stock
for the mitered boxes I build. There's just not enough gain to be had in
the setting up of all of the machines to do a small batch. The work is
quiet, and, while I HAVE cut myself with a sharp plane iron, it only took a
bandaid and a day to heal.

Patriarch,
enjoying the quiet

Thank you Patriarch. You helped me a lot. I only need to do a 7 cut on *both* sides
of the work piece with the TS. Or I could just use a the same 1/4" dovetail router
bit I use to cut the the opening, flip the stock and do it again. That should work -
perhaps.

Hoyt W.