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Bill[_47_]

wrote:
Reminds me of a good tip. Make your reference/spacer marks as needed
on the jamb. Cut the trim to length using the inside length of the
miter, not the outside. Put both sides up, but DO NOT nail the last 8
inches around the miter joint, just make sure the trim is on your
mark. Measure the outside length of the top piece (the horns if you
will) to get an overall outside measurement. If the sides are not 100%
attached, you can move them very slightly back and forth to improve
the appearance of your miter joints. This may be necessary as NO door
is ever installed completely square or completely plumb. Attach the
top piece with a nail in the center of the trim, inspect your joints,
adjust/trim as needed and if necessary put a nail (predrilled of
course!) into the miter joint.
You are ABSOLUTELY CORRECT that you want to predrill for that nail!
DAMHIKT %-)
I removed the first nail with the help of a box cutter.
I added a nail from the side too.
I exclaimed to my wife who happen to be standing nearby, and had no idea
what I was talking about--"How did I forget to predrill for that nail?!"
And, if one can somehow predrill it BEFORE the casing is tacked up, one
may be able to avoid sanding and repainting the adjacent wall surface.
In retrospect, maybe a "barrier" should be used.

I think I cut my casing at 45-degrees. I took your advise (all of it)
and hung up the "horns" first. I had to hack off a little off of one of
the verticals with my hand miter saw and I had to had to cut two or
three times on the other vertical to get them to meet the horns
properly. For the first one I stuck a paint stick in the miter saw to
create the bit of deflection. Due to the nature of the miter saw, and a
little impatience I ended up eye-balling and holding the workpiece with
my hand for the second one. It was nice that this worked pretty well as
it did as I had already cut the pieces to length (and cutting them to
length seems forced on you, at least up to 1/2" or so at the floor).

Using nail sets to set all of the 4d and 6d nails was tedius work (at
least one of the boards was quite hard) Are the folks who use
pneumatic tools able to shoot them below the the surface? I will put
some EZ-Sand on the insets tomorrow.

I bought a quart of "Airy Mint" semi-gloss paint today for the door. I
expect it to look pleasant against everything else, which is WHITE. The
door has a panel window which should look pretty, though the exterior or
it is in need of repair (it will require me to create some new pieces.
I have designate that as a *future* project). Until I started to paint
recently, it's always been covered up wth a make-shift curtain. I'll
enjoy it a bit before I consider covering it up again. Pictures later.

It's nice to have a "cased door" (just wait until it's painted!) Thanks
to all of the folks that helped!

You know what's even better than having a "cased door"? -- Having a
hunch about how to do it! : )

Bill

I would suggest a 3d for that joints as needed. Once you are satisfied
with the fit, complete the attachment of the trim.
Thanks once again for a very helpful lesson!
Glad to help!

Robert