dadiOH wrote:
If your door is "standard", it is 80". A molding 1.25 thick and 2"
wide is wierd.
Yes, I messed up on that. I need a 2 1/2" by 1/2" thick molding. I
described the molding around an entry way (to the kitchen) adjacent to
it, where the actual door lies 5" or so inward.


Because it isn't a perfect world is also the reason I avoid mitering
casing.

I've been "sweating that miters" ever since I took the old one molding
down! Though the fellow who did the previous installation didn't sweat
it--he just left a 3/8" gap inside the miter I guess that's why I
didn't hesitate to discard it.

Instead, I use corner blocks...the ends of the casings are cut square
and of the proper length to align with the reveal. The open square
left is then filled with a slightly thicker and larger square piece of
wood; thicker so it will be proud of the jambs; larger so it will be
wider than the jambs on both edges. A "stopper". Corner blocks often
have a decorative rosette; I don't have a rosettes cutter so I just
rout a decorative edge all around.
I haven't figured out yet why I one may need a rosette cutter (it seems
like they should be of standard size (s) --like 2 3/4" square) but I
like your idea of using "corner blocks" (much better than my chances of
cutting perfect miters!)
I'll investigate further.


Thank you very much for your helpful and interesting post!

Bill