On 7/23/2013 8:23 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 07/23/2013 08:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 7/23/2013 3:20 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, July 23, 2013 4:13:38 PM UTC-4, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 7/23/2013 2:48 PM, Bill Gill wrote:

I have a problem with my refrigerator. I have extremely high
water pressure and the filter in the refrigerator keeps popping.
Then I have water dripping all over the place. So I just got a
pressure regulator and put it in the line to the refrigerator.
And I have what I should have expected. Nice low pressure when
the water is running, but full line pressure when it is not
running. Is there some kind of small bladder tank or something
of the sort that I could put in the line to make it work right?

I will be thankful for any help.

Bill


Your home should have a pressure regulator for the whole house
that limits the pressure inside the home to 50psi which is what
Watts sets their regulators to in the factory. If you have high
water pressure in your home, you will have all sorts of things
blowing a gasket or valve. You can go for a lower pressure if you
like. ^_^

http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...ls.asp?pid=781

http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...s.asp?pid=7671

TDD

+1

If the water pressure is extremely high, then the regulator should
be at the main service line for the house. I don't see why anyone
would put a regulator just on the fridge. Plus, if it's a working
regulator, it should be working for the fridge, not working as
described. If pressure regulators didn't limit the pressure even
when water is not being drawn, they wouldn't be effective at
preventing blowouts, etc.


I've done a lot of work on commercial refrigeration and commercial ice
machines. Some of the big ice machines had water cooled condensers and
high water pressure going into those beasts really screwed with the
operation of the heat exchanger control valves which followed the
pressure changes in the head pressure of the compressor. The service
station/convenience store/restaurant where the big water cooled ice
machine was installed kept having problems with valves all over the
store like in the kitchen and in the rest rooms where the Sloan flush
valves were blowing out. It turned out that the water pressure was 90psi
with spikes to 150psi. I found a 1" Watts pressure regulator in a wall
in the kitchen. After replacing it with a new one set for 50psi all
malfunctions with the ice machine and any sink or toilet ceased. One of
my other customers had a pizza place where the pressure/temperature
valve on the water heater kept running. It was a bad regulator for the
whole little shopping strip with several stores and offices. A 2&1/2"
watts regulator needed replacing and that was a fun job but it fixed all
the problems in the little shopping strip. A sure sign of too much water
pressure in a home is the T/P safety valve
on a water heater that constantly leaks. I can't crawl under houses like
I used to but that's often where the fracking pressure regulator is
located. Every homeowner should have an inexpensive water pressure
meter. O_o

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3-4...IWTG/100175467



https://tinyurl.com/bn8jmnt

http://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-.../dp/B00004RACK

http://www.diyplumbingadvice.com/waterpressure.shtml

TDD

Meh, the last house I had had about 80 PSI water pressure and I had zero
problems save for a T/P valve that failed (but the water heater was 18
years old, replacement worked fine)

Everyone said that I needed a pressure regulator but I wasn't inclined
to put one in, because the shower was so fabulous.

nate


Well Nate, I believe you were lucky except for the T/P valve. I once
traveled a bit to run service calls around the Southeast and I carried
my own shower head that I had drilled out the darn EPA mandated flow
restrictor. I even had Allen wrenches to loosen the locking screws and
pipe wrenches plus adjustable wrenches to remove the motel shower heads
so I could get a dang blasted SHOWER! ^_^

TDD