Greg Guarino wrote:
This is a (very) preliminary design fro a "bridge" to join two bookcase
units I built. The bottom of this unit will be seen; the top and sides
will not. It would be approximately 48" x 23" x 12" deep.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...57632376881493

The bottom drawing shows the face frame as it would be seen; the top
drawing is the plywood cabinet that would go behind it. I'm wondering if ...

1. The dado layout shown is sensible.
2. The dado layout shown will prove too complex for me to glue up
properly in the allotted time.


Ok, here are the changes that I would make. Eliminate the bottom piece of
plywood that goes all the way across. Going up to the three bottoms of each
section, make that a single piece that goes all the way across to form the
actual bottom and let it set in dados in the outer side panels like the top
panel does. Basically make the top and bottom panel exactly the same and
do not have the bottom panel on the very bottom. It will be much simpler
to cut and dado if the top and bottom panels are identical.

Optional,

Additionally, I would cut dados and groves in the back of the face frame to
accept all of the front edges of the plywood panels that it will be
covering. And I always like to have a back face frame attached the same
way too.

IMHO it is fine for the bottom to not appear all closed in.






Regarding (2.), I have made another diagram the shows the order I think I
would need to glue up the pieces in:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...7632376881493/

First the 4 Red pieces
Then the Orange piece
Then the two Yellow pieces
Then the two Green pieces
Lastly, the Blue piece.

[aside: Did anyone else learn the resistor color code? And yes, I know I
left out Black and Brown. And yes, I have heard all of the various
off-color mnemonics for it. And no, I won't be reproducing them here]

Maybe the blue piece should go on earlier? I think maybe it should, but
I'm too lazy to redo the screenshot. The clamping would be a little
tricky too, especially with my modest inventory. Does anyone ever clamp a
box like this with it standing vertically? I'm guessing not; too easy to
have it end up twisted.

As always, advice would be appreciated.

If you go with my suggestion glue up would be a one step process for the
entire carcass. It would be all dado joints so every thing would stay in
place, starting with the center "H" section an finally adding the top,
bottom, and sides.


Another hint, use Titebond II Extend glue for thus glue up. It gives you
more working time and as always you should do a dry fit first.

I could provide a non scale drawing of how I actually do these type
cabinets if you would like.