Correct. As I mentioned in a different post, in an ideal world, every
application of a power tool would have copper coming to it of such size
that the maximum load of the tool wouldn't produce a discernible voltage
drop. This would include the cord provided by the manufacturer of the
tool. In the real world, I've been happier with tools running on 220.
I've spend a lot of time with most of them both ways. You pay's your
money and takes your choice. My advice is, if the tool stays in one
place all the time and 220 is handy, use it. YMMV.

rhg

J. Clarke wrote:

Robert Galloway wrote:


120 volt light circuit maybe 14-3/G Most of us have shop circuits wired
with 12-3/G and an occasional 10-3/G. 12-3/G goes most places in my
shop 120 or 240.


You're supposed to size the wire for the current and the length of the run
so that the voltage drop at max load is allowable. If you do that then saw
should not be "bogging" due to voltage drop in the wiring under heavy load.


rhg

J. Clarke wrote:

Robert Galloway wrote:



Consume more power? The first guy to respond to the question was spot
on. Has everybody who attemps to reply actually run a bunch of tool on
both 120 and 240? Same tools? Tried both ways? If you use a gawdawful
heavy cord direct from the service panel, maybe you couldn't tell the
diffence. In the real world, with similar gauge wiring, you'll find the
saw will start quicker and bog less. Since it bogs less, it runs
cooler. IMHO


In the real world if you're using the same gage wiring for a 240 volt
circuit and a 120 volt circuit that has to carry twice the current then
it's time to sue the electrician.



rhg

BadgerDog wrote:



Why would the saw run cooler if there is more voltage to the saw?

To first order, won't the saw consume the same amount of power when
using 120V or 240V (assuming of course the motor is wired correctly for
the
appropriate voltage)? That said, in reality I think that saw will
consume a little more power (maybe 5-10% more for a typical
installation) in the 240V configuration than it would in the 120V
configuration.

BadgerDog



wrote in message
...



By doubling the voltage, the current is halved. Therefore the I/R
(voltage drop of the wire, which is a function of the current and
resistance in

wire)



is cut in half. (more voltage to the saw).
The saw starts better (the most current is on startup) runs better,
cooler

and



should last longer.
Just my $0.02

Frank

Brandt in western Canada wrote:




Does changing the voltage capability on my TS allow me to work the saw
harder or does it simply help prevent overheating and burnout and a
few breaker runs?

I have already blown out a capacitor on the motor, ugh. (120volt

setting)