In article ,
says...

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 21:56:33 -0700, WayneJ wrote:

Karl,

Most fence chargers are prtetty simple, I have schematics of a few
designs. What brand is yours?

Units with a meter typically connect the meter to a 1 or 2 turn
secondary on the output transformer. Depending on the design of your
charger, the meter curcuit can be as simple as a diode and a meter
movement or somewhat more complex.

It would be well worth your while to open the charger up and take a look
at what you have. It could be a bad meter movement, a bad diode or even
a dead insect in the meter movement blocking motion. Supposedly, the
movement is sealed os a bug can't get in, but as you probably know they
can get into surprising places.

WayneJ

Its a Parmak precision brand. Made in USA - KC MO

A proper repair would be huge. I did find this on the web
http://www.dickselectricfencerrepair.com/ But likely, the repair will
be about the same as a new one. Mine is a 6 Joule 7K volt rated unit.
Now, I see you can get 10 Joule 12K volt units. Maybe its time to
upgrade.



For years, I've moved a metal post close to the wire to make sure it
pops a good arc. I'm thinking, make this accurate for a measurment.
I'll just set up a stop with a threaded bolt, probably use 3/4x10 so
each turn is 0.100". I know the fencer pops 1/4 to 3/8 when in top
form, if it won't pop more than about 1/8 its time to find the
problem.

Yeah, a 6 Joule unit will get your attention if it hits you!

I have a partial schematic for a smaller Parmak. Parmak uses a somewhat
more complicated metering circuit than some. One turn of wire around the
outside of the output transformer connects to a circuit consisting of a
rectifier, followed by an opamp integrator and meter driver.

If you are comfortable working on the circuit I'll be glad to send a
copy of the metering circuit. Although it's from a different model it's
likely to be quite similar except for a few component values. It would
be quick and easy to check the diodes, meter movement and most of the
caps and resistors without disconnecting anything.

Your test unit should work, but of course you have to go up and connect
it each time you check the fence. In my experience, the cheap test units
with multiple neon lights indicating voltage are good to check the
output, but won't last if left connected permanetly.

Be glad you have deer and not elk to keep out. The elk around here will
go through a 6 wire high tensile fence as if it wasn't there, hot or
not. They seem to prefer to bust through even if the fence is low enough
to jump.

WayneJ