"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...

On 20/05/2013 22:42, Nthkentman wrote:
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
. uk...

I have given up on trying to get the tractor mower to collect the
clippings, it has just been far too wet the past couple of years - the
cuttings just stick in the collection duct and build up until it
extends into the cutting deck then jams the blade. The jammed blade
then wrecks the drive V belt.

My first mod, was to fit a flap diverting cuttings from entering the
duct, but even that choked up. So what I have done now is take the duct
off completely.

Anyone else having issues with their mowers jamming up due to the
constant wet weather over the past two years?



Technique......It's all about technique. (And a bloody sharp edge blade,
so file an edge on the bugger before starting to cut when wet!)

Set cut height to slice off about the top 1" of sward if it's very long.
Lower as required after a full area cut. Repeat.
If cut sward outlet is at RHS toward rear of machine then second line of
cut should overlap the first line of cut by only HALF the blade diameter
to the LEFT side. This allows sward to be flung better out of exit chute
as you are flinging it over an already cleared area and not across the
top of uncut sward. Simplez!

What about if your machine is like mine with centre outlet (i.e. between
two counter rotating blades). That presumably limits you to only using a
quarter of the deck's width?

Empty after a few runs, listen to the engine, when it's labouring then
you've overdone it. Watch the excess cut sward behind, if there's lots
you're either full up in the bag or there's a blockage.

If you're on clay generally, over a period of time across the season,
add a thin (½") of 30/50 topsoil and mortar sand mixed evenly every so
often across all the worst areas after cutting to the desired height,

The "worst" areas in my case would be the third of the lawn you could
water ski across with a good run up ;-)

this will allow the grass to grow through and give a more drainable top
layer. Take time to keep it raked level, and you'll have a good surface
building up that will look better and be more managable. The more you
do it, the easier the surface will drain, the more level it will be and
the grass will benefit.

After 10 years in the Golf industry sorting these problems on *very*
expensive mowers and idiot operators it's all about doing it right and
making it look nice, and it's easy, when you know how.

John,

Counter rotating blades are a PITA. Half width cut can help, but frequently
clogs. Several light cuts of under an inch is preferable. With SHARP blades.
(You could get the trailing edges raised up a few degrees to assist
airflow/throw)

Turf cutter, lift the top off down to about 1½", remove next 2 -3" of
topsoil (Or whatever is there) and add sand in place. Ordinary mortar sand
50/50 with dry soil will be better. Relay the turf and water well.
This works for small areas that may have a depression rather than a large
area which needs better drainage assistance.

Stop struggling with the bigger wet areas and using this summer (If it
appears) to sort some simple herringbone/french drain type drainage.

Dig herringbone shape channels about 3-4" wide joining at the centre of the
wettest part and downward to an area where drainage will help elsewhere or
out into a soakaway (If you feel brave enough to dig one) Use pebbles as a
base and cover with a twice the width of the drain fabric strip. Relaying
turf over the drain without fabric will let the roots get back in and
restrict flow later on

Wet patches that bad will never go away until drainage helps.

I've dug miles of simple land drain over the years and it works if the
simple French drain/Herringbone idea is used