"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
I'm trying to repair a partly stripped spare headstock for a South
Bend Heavy 10, as shown on page 2 of this:
http://www.neme-s.org/Shaper%20Books...s%20Manual.pdf


Why not make it all as new parts instead of trying to work on the
old ones?

Turn THREE eccentrics, then align drill/ream the pin holes. Now mill
your slot in one of those. Remove the slotted bushing and stack it
on a suitable section of shafting with the third eccentric and line
them up.
Make witness marks and pull them apart, now bore holes foe a pair of
dowel pins on the adjoining faces. Turn a suitable handle and mill a
flat on the outer bushing and weld the handle on. Drill and tap for
a set screw to hold the piece to the shaft with the dowels fully
seated.
Steve W.

That is essentially my fallback position if I don't find a way to
angularly align the new handle bushing on the existing shaft.

The small end of the #2 taper pin in "O" is 0.160" diameter so I can
use a 1/8" or 5/32" roll pin to attach the new handle and maybe ream
for a taper pin later.

I do have broaches to cut keyways to connect and align a new non-SB
replacement shaft and bushings, and the eccentricity is low enough to
drill offset center holes in the ends of the new shaft and turn it and
the keyed-on bushings as a unit, like a built-up crankshaft. The main
problem there is drilling both end's centers at the same angular
position.
jsw