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...
On Thu, 23 May 2013 18:39:21 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I'm trying to repair a partly stripped spare headstock for a South
Bend Heavy 10, as shown on page 2 of this:
http://www.neme-s.org/Shaper%20Books...s%20Manual.pdf


Greetings Jim,
If it was me I would first turn the O.D. of each eccentric. I would
then drill an undersized hole at the taper pin location. I would
then
put a pin in this hole and use it to locate one axis of the
eccentric
hole. Then I would bore the eccentric holes. Finally I would ream
the
holes for the proper fit for the taper pin. I would the inspect the
original shaft the bushings go on and make sure that both taper pins
line up with each other and with the same axis as the eccentric. I
would then correct any holes that were in the wrong place. In fact,
the shaft should be done first so that you know on which axis of the
eccentric bushings the pin should go. Also, do you have the proper
taper pin reamer(s)?
Eric

I have larger and smaller taper pin reamers but not #2. There isn't
much stress between the handle and shaft since its engaged and
disengaged stops are in a slot cut into the handle's bearing surface
and the friction shoe that keeps the gears engaged while cutting rides
against the other bushing O. I was planning to clamp part K onto the
shaft with a brass-tipped setscrew, possibly the handle itself, to
avoid butchering an original SB part. People collect and restore these
things.

Keeping both bushings on the same rotational axis both when turning
part K while it's somehow clamped to O and then when attaching it to
the end of the shaft is what I haven't figured out, but I got an idea
using vee blocks and 3/16" shims while writing this.
jsw