On Thu, 23 May 2013 18:39:21 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I'm trying to repair a partly stripped spare headstock for a South
Bend Heavy 10, as shown on page 2 of this:
http://www.neme-s.org/Shaper%20Books...s%20Manual.pdf

I haven't figured out how to make the back gear lever K+J, which moves
the eccentrically-located quill shaft in or out of engagement with the
spindle gears. My lathe is 30 years older than that manual and the
spare probably older still, and they don't appear to have a separate
bushing J, the lever and the eccentric bushing look like a single
casting. The shaft is taper-pinned to the eccentric bushings at both
ends so the shaft and bushings rotate together.

I got as far as drilling oversized round stock to fit on the shaft but
now I don't see how to attach the blank for K to O to turn the outer
bearing surface concentric and then move it to the far end of the
shaft without losing rotational alignment. To complicate the problem
the OD at J is 1.250" while O's is 1.625".

It would be easy if I cut key slots in the shaft, K and O, locking
them together while turning J and preserving the angular alignment
when I move K+J to the far end. Can you think of a method that uses
the original hard-to-find SB shaft and part O without damaging them?
jsw

Greetings Jim,
If it was me I would first turn the O.D. of each eccentric. I would
then drill an undersized hole at the taper pin location. I would then
put a pin in this hole and use it to locate one axis of the eccentric
hole. Then I would bore the eccentric holes. Finally I would ream the
holes for the proper fit for the taper pin. I would the inspect the
original shaft the bushings go on and make sure that both taper pins
line up with each other and with the same axis as the eccentric. I
would then correct any holes that were in the wrong place. In fact,
the shaft should be done first so that you know on which axis of the
eccentric bushings the pin should go. Also, do you have the proper
taper pin reamer(s)?
Eric