On Wed, 1 May 2013 15:44:06 -0400, "Wild_Bill"
wrote:

One possible reason for neither of the black leads showing any continuity to
any other wires could be the appliance was discarded for a reason.. maybe
the motor went bad years ago.

A 3uF motor cap would very likely be on a PSC type motor. The wiring scheme
for a PSC is similar to a center-tapped transformer.. 2 (nearly) identical
windings in series.

wire o--------------o--------------o wire


The center tap is a third wire, and the resistance readings from center to
each end would be close to identical, and combined, those readings would
equal the end-to-end resistance reading.

No manufacturer would use a black wire for an earth ground wire. Earth
ground is nearly always green, although sometimes green/yellow.

The white wire is common to the motor capacitor and the HV module, so I'd
expect that to be the neutral of 120VAC (located electrically at the center
of the 2 windings).
The grey wire likely goes to an end of one of the windings.

I'd suspect that one of the black wires was the hot side of 120VAC.
Since there's no continuity, then likely a break in the wire-to-winding
connection or an open winding.


OK, I looked at it again and took some readings that I did not before. The
Black wire mystery is solved. Black in to black out is likely an interrupter of
sorts. Thermal protection?? Allows the motor to cut power to everything if it
senses trouble.

Zero ohms between them. Don't know how I missed that. If it is intermittently
failing (reason for discard), I can bypass it.

The gray wire to the brown is 66 ohms, increasing as we move towards white, so
brown is the center tap and the start coil 66 ohms.

http://www.grailworks.org//Images/Motor.jpg


So the Black Wire hot out from the motor goes to the white lead, start/run cap,
and HV input. Looks good. The other side of the HV input has the other AC leg
and it would connect to the brown wire.

I presume whatever switching device is used, it would bypass (short) the brown
to yellow or brown to red or yellow to red or so on, to remove power to those
coil segments. Something to ponder when I have a moment.

For hrhofann: Part number on unit is 001-02084-000
Ref # DM-60001
Year 04 H

Zilch on lookup by me. Got an idea?? I would love to see how this was intended
to be run.

Thanks guys!