On Mon, 22 Apr 2013 11:42:25 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:
On Mon, 22 Apr 2013 05:29:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:
On Apr 21, 11:15*pm, wrote:
On Sun, 21 Apr 2013 18:50:29 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:
On Apr 21, 6:11*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
Ashton Crusher wrote:
I was thinking of putting a higher pressure cap on one of my cars to
increase the factor of safety against boiling. *Looking thru the web
for info on the likelihood of changing from 7 psi to 13 psi causing
leaks I found little on that issue but did find a couple references to
the pressures created by the water pump. *One site boasts of a 19 PSI,
$25 cap to get you thru your "hard driving".
http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-h...tor-cap-13-bar....
Thought I'd see if anyone else has heard of this. *The claim was that
the water pump could create over 30 PSI of pressure. *Since that is
double the normal operating pressure of most modern cars I find it
hard to believe. *If the system was at full 15 psi of pressure while
the car is idling and then your floored it and ran it up to near
redline * and created another 30psi of additional pump pressure, or
even 10 psi of additioingnal pressure downstream at the radiator cap, you
would immediately cause the system to have to vent to the overflow to
relieve this higher pressure. * I've never seen a car vent due to me
revving the engine up while I'm working on it. Thoughts?????
Hi.
There is a over flow bottle for coolant/anti-freeze. Ever
cleaned/flushed your rad. and maintain proper level of
coolant/anti-freeze in your rad.? If the car is old, messing with cap
can spring
a leak.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
AMEN!
*A water pump cannot produce system pressure because it just moves
water from one side of the pump to the other. Expansion due to heat is
what builds pressure..- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
You might want to rethink that one. Water isn't going to
move through a system without pressure to push it. I wouldn't
expect the pressure to be very high, but there has to be pressure
due to the pump.
As for the question at hand, what is unstated is if there is
actually a problem, ie is the car overheating? If it is, then
finding out the cause of that instead of trying to raise the
boiling point of the coolant via pressure would seem to be
the better approach. For example, if he has a bad thermostat
or collapsing hose, he'd be just covering up the real problem.
No, the car is not overheating. It's never overheated. What happened
is that I installed an AC unit in this 60 Dodge. That has made it run
about 10 degrees hotter then it used to, mainly from just having the
condenser there in front of the radiator. So I was thinking about
whether it would be a good idea to go to a 13 pound cap instead of the
7 pound one on it. Just to give a bigger margin of safety when the
temps here get up to 110. The manual for the car lists the 7 pound
cap for non-ac cars and the 13 pound cap for AC cars. Just curious if
anyone has ever seen this increase in pressure cause an immediate leak
to happen. The Radiator was rebuilt 10 years/10,000 miles ago. The
heater core is factory original. Now, on a 95 degree day it's running
up to 205 on the freeway and 195 around town. Thermostat is 180.
That should mean the thermostat is wide open. But the thermostat
could be broken. You can replace it, or hang this one into a pot of
water whose temp is climing. Use a candy thermometer or something
that goes up to 190 to see if the thermostat opens all the way at 180.
I've only done this once, and I don't remember how sure I was that it
was open, or not open, all the way. That is, I didn't know where all
the way was, in practical terms.
Maybe you need a trailer package. Well, just the bigger radiator.
Plus what Dave L said.
Heater cores in many many cars are a pain to replace. Lots of things
on top of them, including parts of your recently added AC, which iiuc
doesn't use rubber hoses, uses metal hoses. Am I right about that?