Danny:
Referring to this pictu
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12570264.jpg
I see you've bought 1 1/2 inch nipples in various lengths. I hope you kept the receipt.
Once you get the old rusted nipple out, were you planning to screw one of those nipples in? If so, then are you planning to just slip the Fernco over the threads on the nipple and tightening up the clamp? I'm thinking if the Fernco is gonna be tightened up on those threads, you're likely to leak at those threads.
What you might want to do instead is buy a 1 1/2 inch ABS or PVC "MIP" or "Male Iron Pipe" adapter, also called an "HTA" or Hub Thread Adapeter:
NIBCO | 1-1/2 In. ABS Male Adapter Hub x MIPT | Home Depot Canada
...and a foot or two of 1 1/2 inch ABS pipe.
Cement the thread adapter onto the end of your pipe and screw the pipe into the tee in the wall.
Then dry fit your 1 1/2 inch adjustable p-trap with clean out together and slip that onto your kitchen sink tail piece. Also dry fit a piece of plastic pipe into the outlet end of the p-trap long enough so that you can have 1/2 inch of pipe or so sticking out both ends of the Fernco.
Looking from below, line up the end of the pipe coming out the outlet end of the p-trap with the pipe coming out of the wall and see where to cut that pipe coming out of the wall so there's room for the Fernco between them. Remove the p-trap, remove the pipe, cut it to length, and add an extra 2 or 3 turns of teflon tape on the threads of the adapter. (And, if it wus me, I would take along a set of dental picks and a socket brush for solidering smaller diameter copper pipe to clean out the threads in the tee in the wall as best I can. Maybe bring some CLR acid to dissolve any crap in the threads, too, along with a brush to paint the acid onto those threads. You don't want to muck up the threads of your plastic adapter because there was rust in the threads of the tee you screwd the plastic adapter into.)
Then, cement the trap together making sure that there's a full 3/4 inch of pipe allowed at each plastic socket. Schmear some faucet grease on the outside of the pipeS the Ferco will go around and on the ID of the Fernco.
Grease the OD's of the pipe coming out of the wall and the pipe coming out of the downstream half of the P-trap. Grease the inside of the Fernco. Use faucet grease. Slide the greased Fernco onto the pipe coming out of the wall and slide the downstream half of the p-trap into the Fernco.
Now slide the upstream end of the P-trap onto the tail piece coming off the bottom of the kitchen sink.
Now connect the two halves of the P-trap together. Then tighten the trap adapter nut onto the sink drain tailpiece, and then tighten the clamps on the Fernco. Always tighten the joint between the two halves of the P-trap together first, and then the two ends.
Fill the sink completely with water, pull the sink drain and check for leaks. Put some paper towels under your new plumbing. When you're confident the plumbing isn't leaking, remove the paper towels. The paper towels will make any leaks you didn't initially notice much more visible.
PS:
In this pictu
the homeowner is connecting his p-trap to the tail piece right near the bottom of the tail piece, and that's stupid.
It would be smarter to have the vertical pipe on the p-trap longer so that the seal between the tail piece and the p-trap occurred as high up on the tail piece as possible.
That's because when the kitchen sink drains, air will be compressed in the annular space between the tail piece and the vertical ABS pipe. If it takes 3 minutes for a full kitchen sink to drain, but 3 1/2 minutes for that compressed air to leak out, you still will never have a water leak at the top of the p-trap.
If you have the p-trap connect to the tail piece near the bottom, it'll still take 3 minutes for the sink to drain, but now only 30 seconds for the compressed air to leak out, and you've got the possibility of a leak.
So, it's better practice to have the top of your p-trap as high up on the tail piece as practical so that you have minimize the chances of water leakage.