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Vic Smith Vic Smith is offline
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Default How do you snake a kitchen sink & how to remove a corroded steel nipple when only 1/4" sticks out?

On Mon, 1 Apr 2013 03:38:11 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Sun, 31 Mar 2013 19:12:23 -0700 bob haller wrote:

go all plastic with a p trap that can be opened in the future


It's already all plastic from the sink to the nipple sticking out of the
wall. I will try to get LARGER diameter plastic though (so that it
doesn't clog up again) and one with a trap that can be opened.


I never saw a kitchen P-trap with a built-in clean-out. Sound like
trouble to me.
Usually the sink drain basket size and sink line size determine drain
trap piping size.
1 1/2' is common and enough. Your rusty nipple goes into a 1 1/2"
T in the wall. That has vent pipe above and sink line below.

But, how does one SNAKE a kitchen sink?


I've always done what you already did. Remove the trap and clean it.
Then if you want to snake the sink line the snake is easily fed into
the wall fitting. Disposals and dishwasher drains just make it a bit
more work.


And, WHAT TOOL will spin off a nipple when you only have 1/4" sticking
out?


Internal pipe wrench.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RID...e-Wrench-1VUV1
Or pull the cabinet so you can get at it with a regular pipe wrench.
I ran into a rusty 1/2" water supply nipple that my helper broke off,
and no way to get a wrench on it. I ground an old chisel so it would
cut into the pipe when I hammered it in. Used a wrench on the hex
chisel shank to turn the nipple out. Don't know that would work on
1 1/2". Depends on how tight it is. Besides that, it sounds like you
have a coupling on that nipple, since it's female threads showing.
The common setup here is the 1 1/2 male nipple threads poking through
the wall. A 1 1/4" drain slips into the stub and is connected with a
slip joint compression nut/washer on the male threads. ! 1/2" uses a
compression nut/washer too, but the drain pipe isn't slipped into the
wall stub, but connected end-to-end.
Not sure all the terminology is correct, but that's how it works.
You might look into using a Fernco connector on the stub showing, and
not have the work of removing/replacing it..