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[email protected] clare@snyder.on.ca is offline
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Default Root cause insight into the common BMW blower motor resistor failures

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:28:00 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


wrote:

On Sat, 23 Mar 2013 22:27:41 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


wrote:

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:

Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.

That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475041.jpg

The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612

It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.

So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475043.jpg
Why would you have to cut the wires????
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. You guys make your
lives so difficult


Take a blown fuse and use it for a test connector with a cheap
50-0-50A meter. Then you can just plug it in in place of the fuse to
make the test. You won't even have to worry about the polarity. You
can use a high current shunt, & a digital meter if you want more
accuracy.

Or just get the special tester that is made to plug into the
fuseblock. Autel makes the MX101 and 201 (10 amp and 20 amp) units for
the lighter duty stuff.



Is that cheaper than roll your own?

Definitely not, if you already have a multimeter - but it is easier
for the guys who can't figure out how to do it without butchering the
wiring harness.