Yep, I've seen other types of products where the end of stick of material is
heated over a flame, then applied as a repair to fill scatches, nicks etc..
but the convenience of the hot glue gun would be a simple method.

Although hot glue sticks have their limitations.. if something were left on
a car dashboard on a sunny day, it may turn into a puddle (for example).

There are some home shop-type plastic injection molding machines for forcing
the melted plastic into mold cavities, but a fairly expensive method for
occassional use.
Benchtop injection molder: http://www.injectionmolder.net/index.htm

Shapelock low temp formable plastic: http://shapelock.com/page4.html

Various epoxies are routinely used in molds made of silicone rubber, and the
silicone can duplicate some fine details of the original part.

Mentioned previously, epoxy putty is fast and durable for objects like
enclosing junctions.

There are other products which would also work more-or-less for making small
molded or shaped pieces.. machineable wax and other prototyping materials,
and some are reuseable.

I used to see a powder plastic repair product at electronics suppliers, but
never tried it.. mix solvent with powder, let dry, color to suit.
This is it: http://www.rawnamerica.com/whats_new/plastipair_pr.php
Demonstration: http://www.thisolddoll.com/tools/plaspair.htm

Looking for it, I discovered something that may be similar (but likely costs
more) called Nail Acrylic Powder (for making/repairing weemins' fingernails.

Another solvent/powder product is Plast-aid Repair Kit.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"josephkk" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 18:56:03 -0400, "Wild_Bill"
wrote:

There are specialty heatshrink tubing products which have a heat sensitive
adhesive on the inner surface. One type is used for direct-burial
electrical
splices.

I use a thin coating of hot glue under shrink tubing since it makes the
closure more secure.. improved tensile strength and mechanical
stability/support.
The junction can be flattened between 2 flat surfaces (not your fingers)
while it's still hot to form a neater looking junction (or ironed/rolled
flat with the cooler/upper section of a soldering iron barrel.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, 2 or 3 flat pieces of plastic can be
hollowed out to create a cavity for the splices, then filled with hot glue
or epoxy to close.

Black hot glue would be handy for a lot of fixes (might melt/reflow in a
hot
car, though), but sticks of hard setting thermoplastic would be better,
IMO.
Problem is, fumes from hot plastics can be really nasty.

I suppose you can try ski repair "candle" plastic. Presuming it is still
available and a decent electrical insulator.

?-)