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jim beam jim beam is offline
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Default Root cause insight into the common BMW blower motor resistorfailures

On 03/22/2013 12:43 PM, wrote:
On Mar 22, 3:04�pm, wrote:
On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner





wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:


�Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.


That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475041.jpg

The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612


It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.


So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475043.jpg


� Why would you have to cut the wires????
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. �You guys make your
lives so difficult- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


It's kind of amazing the fuse is 40 amps, no? I mean a 1 hp
motor draws ~1500W And this heater blower is 480W?
Seems like a lot to me.....


in this thread it's been said it draws 6A running. x 12V, that's 72W.

but the reason you have 40A is you have very high current start-up
transients. on a cold day with a gale blowing outside the car, and some
snow in the system, you could be into the 30's without too much problem.
so you need an amperage that will still blow in the event of short
circuit, but which will tolerate the above.


--
fact check required