Steve W. wrote:
Ken Grunke wrote:
The gauge on my old compression tester decided it had served well enough
after several years of non-use, it's demise helped along by a good dose
of rust. I needed one for a project car I just started working on so I
went ebay shopping for a replacement gauge to go on my hose & adapters.
I found a Proto CTR-20 gauge on ebay, USA made, brand new according to
seller, with a release valve for a good price of $15 including shipping
but there isn't a check valve to hold the pressure for cumulative
readings. On my old gauge, it must be built into the gauge's body as I
don't see any kind of external check valve on it.
When cranking the engine, the needle jumps up to max and back to zero for
each cycle. I'm not familiar with how a standard automotive compression
tester is supposed to work here, other than it should hold the pressure
and increase the reading a bit with each crank cycle of the motor.
Can anyone enlighten me on how to get this working the way I remember it
should?
Here's the gauge screwed onto my hose:
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge01.jpg
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge02.jpg
Not how it's supposed to work. Most of them use a check valve in the plug
adapter fitting on the end of the hose. 99% use a tire valve core type
valve. Looks just like the release valve in that T fitting on the old
gauge.
Oh the old unit uses nothing more than a bog standard air pressure gauge
with a "compression tester" face on it. The spark adapter fittings are the
part that makes it special.
Perhaps Ken can rescue the adapters with check valves off the old gauge. The
fittings are probably standard pipe thread with some Teflon tape.
My compression gauge has a two piece adapter. The adapter for larger spark
plug threads can be unscrewed for the smaller plug sizes. Once this part is
unscrewed, the tire valve type check valve is clearly visible and can be
removed/replaced with a (cheap) special tool.
--
Paul Hovnanian
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2 + 2 = 5 for extremely large values of 2.