Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 3/19/2013 6:57 AM, Bill wrote:

Since the heavy saw on a base is being supported by a structure of
bolts mounted in plywood, 8-12 of them seems prudent (to me), as
they will support a fair amount of weight and vibration.
Having lived for years with a shimmed miter saw installation (plastic
shims when they became available) on a shop built wooden stand, I
concur with your quest to come up with some type of metal,
screw/thread based, leveling/flushing mechanism.

If you can pull it off, you will find that to be a much more
preferable solution than shimming a miter saw, where being flush with
the wings can affect both the cut and safety, and all too often has
to be tweaked with every change in weather or movement.
Reading Karl's comment I am now wondering if I somehow lost track of the
conversation. Are you thinking about building a stand like Karl showed used
to have Bill? Somehow I had the notion that you were going down the road of
something less permanent. My comments to you might still be appropriate if
you are thinking of a rig like Karl's original stand, but I guess I'm
confused as to your direction.

Well, whatever I build will probably last as long as your BBQ grill
miter saw stand. That's just the way life is. I regret I don't have a
saw yet to use my dado blade. I may use a router-- or my joiner!

Using Karl's words, a "screw/thread based, leveling/flushing mechanism"
may not be inappropriate. Since the saw has four unthreaded 1/2" holes
for fastener bolts, and four 3/16" holes too, attaching the saw to a
second piece of plywood sounds right. It can then be afixed, and
leveled, with 10-12 more bolts. If I am told this is overkill, then I
may cut back. The temperatures are still in the low to mid 20's here,
so I'm still in the talking stage. However, I drew some diagrams today.
A decent stand gets big (long) fast!

Karl made a remark about *safety* that drew my attention. What is at
risk if the blade gets pinched in a cut?

Bill