On Tue, 19 Mar 2013 13:16:18 -0700 (PDT), Ken Grunke
wrote:

The gauge on my old compression tester decided it had served well enough after several years of non-use, it's demise helped along by a good dose of rust. I needed one for a project car I just started working on so I went ebay shopping for a replacement gauge to go on my hose & adapters.

I found a Proto CTR-20 gauge on ebay, USA made, brand new according to seller, with a release valve for a good price of $15 including shipping but there isn't a check valve to hold the pressure for cumulative readings. On my old gauge, it must be built into the gauge's body as I don't see any kind of external check valve on it.

When cranking the engine, the needle jumps up to max and back to zero for each cycle. I'm not familiar with how a standard automotive compression tester is supposed to work here, other than it should hold the pressure and increase the reading a bit with each crank cycle of the motor.

Can anyone enlighten me on how to get this working the way I remember it should?

Here's the gauge screwed onto my hose:
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge01.jpg
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge02.jpg

It jumps to 300 lbs on each crank and then drops off again?

The gauge is missing a check valve in the bottom of the hose above the
spark plug adapter


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie