David Farber wrote:
I was given this Ford F87F-18C815-BB factory tuner/cd player to see
why it's draining the car battery to the point where the car won't
start.

This radio appears to be for a late 90s-mid 00s Ford. If the car still
has the factory battery, replace it. If the battery that's in there now
is more than 5 or 6 years old, replace it. You and the car owner will
be happier.

Do I need 12V on pin 3 (start), pin 4 (clock), pin 9 (battery), pin 10
(run:acc)?

My guess: apply power to pin 9 only to simulate the key off position.

Apply power to pins 9 and 10 both to simulate the key on position.

I don't know what pin 3 (start) does, but I suspect it might be for
"load shed" when you turn the ignition key to "start", so the engine
starter gets the maximum possible juice. Some cars do this by having
two different "run" wires from the ignition switch - one gets dumped in
"start" and the other doesn't - but I can see them just using the
"start" wire as a disable as well.

Is the "clock" the actual time of day display or is it the internal
clock for the system processor(s)?

"Clock" is probably either a constant +12 V to keep the clock running,
or maybe it has to do with when the clock is displayed. (Like, maybe
the body computer sends 12 V to it when you open the door, so the
clock comes on with the dome light.) If it's constant 12 V, then I
don't know why it doesn't just use pin 9, but maybe they wanted to put
it on a different circuit.

Are pins 1 and 2 (illum +/-) just the 12V input that power whatever
accessory lights there are?

Probably.

Can that be jumpered to the 12V line as well? Is it ok to common
ground the illum - pin to pin 11 (radio gnd)?

In the car, they may get fed from a rheostat or PWM box so as to have
something less than 12 V on them. You might apply something like 6 to
8 V DC to pins 1 and 2, only, and see if the display or buttons start to
light up. If that looks good, then ramp up to 12 V. If 12 V looks
good, then yeah, you can just connect pin 2 (illum -) to pin 11 (radio
ground) and pin 1 (illum +) to either pin 9 or pin 10. If 6 or 8 V DC
makes the display or buttons light up insanely bright, then go down on
the voltage a little.

Also, does anyone know where to get a schematic for this unit?

It probably exists on two hard drives at Ford (or their supplier) and
nowhere else. A few repair places, like the one you linked, may have
one, but they probably want to repair your stereo for you rather than
give (or sell) you a copy of the schematic. I wouldn't hold my breath
waiting for one.

Matt Roberds