Japanese rip saw technique
"Hoyt Weathers" wrote in message
...
RichardS wrote:
big snip
So, sorry if this sounds like a really stupid question/thread, I'm just
puzzled, that's all! If the answer is "use just like you would a
western
rip saw" then fine, I'll go away and practice until I get the technique.
IMHO good woodworking is 90% technique, and I like to use correct
technique
and refine it until perfect results.
--
Richard Sampson
snip
Richard, I wish I could draw on a word program but I can't.
1. Keep in mind that the teeth of a Jap saw are very, very sharp - whether
they are
rip or cross-cut saws.
2. Both rip and cross-cut Jap saws cut on the pull stroke.
I think it is obvious that you fully understand those two points. I do not
wish to
imply that I am challenging you on those.
Forget about edge grain vs. long grain for the moment. They are relevant,
but not
significantly so for this discussion at this time.
Yes, those sharp teeth will "dig" in as you say. For a given saw, how much
and how
aggressive they dig in depends almost totally upon the sharpness of the
teeth and the
amount of vertical pressure you exert on those teeth via the handle as you
pull the
saw. Same as for a western saw, except on the push stoke. Within reason
the more
pressure you apply, the more aggressive the saw will cut - up to a point.
Keep in mind that the Jap saw can and will bow or kink if pushed too hard
and too
deeply on the reverse stroke. Those saw blades are thin because they are
designed to
be used in tension and not in compression.
Try this:
Just put the saw with the blade resting on the edge to be cut. Do NOT put
any
downward pressure via the handle. Then slowly and lightly pull the saw
towards you.
It will try to cut, but is ineffective. It may bounce along, skipity hop,
but that is
expected. The teeth tend to dig in, but do not do so very much because
there is
almost no downward pressure to the saw teeth. They will just leave a small
kerf mark
on the edge. I often do this to make a starter mark.
Then do the same as the above, but with suitable [ ? ] downward pressure
via the
handle. Now what happens? The teeth cut into the wood. How much it cuts
into the wood
is a direct and proportional function of the force applied to those sharp
teeth.
Western physics is identical to Japanese physics.
To reverse the stroke, move the saw forward with no downward pressure at
all and
keeping the saw blade deep in the kerf.
Repeat as above until the saw cuts as much as you wish of the board.
I hope the above does not appear to be sophomoric to you. That is
certainly not my
intention. Let's keep at this until you are fully satisfied with
yourself - not us.
At this point I will stop and pitch it back to you for comments and
questions.
Hoyt W.
Sorry for delay in reply, not disappeared from thread but work suddenly
exploded and mind been on other things.
Had quite a bit more success this evening, will post back with more tomorrow
morning, family unexpectedly turned up... doh.
It's gonna take a bit more practice, but things are progressing.
--
Richard Sampson
email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
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