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Hoyt Weathers
 
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Default Japanese rip saw technique

RichardS wrote:

big snip

So, sorry if this sounds like a really stupid question/thread, I'm just
puzzled, that's all! If the answer is "use just like you would a western
rip saw" then fine, I'll go away and practice until I get the technique.
IMHO good woodworking is 90% technique, and I like to use correct technique
and refine it until perfect results.

--
Richard Sampson


snip

Richard, I wish I could draw on a word program but I can't.

1. Keep in mind that the teeth of a Jap saw are very, very sharp - whether they are
rip or cross-cut saws.

2. Both rip and cross-cut Jap saws cut on the pull stroke.

I think it is obvious that you fully understand those two points. I do not wish to
imply that I am challenging you on those.

Forget about edge grain vs. long grain for the moment. They are relevant, but not
significantly so for this discussion at this time.

Yes, those sharp teeth will "dig" in as you say. For a given saw, how much and how
aggressive they dig in depends almost totally upon the sharpness of the teeth and the
amount of vertical pressure you exert on those teeth via the handle as you pull the
saw. Same as for a western saw, except on the push stoke. Within reason the more
pressure you apply, the more aggressive the saw will cut - up to a point.

Keep in mind that the Jap saw can and will bow or kink if pushed too hard and too
deeply on the reverse stroke. Those saw blades are thin because they are designed to
be used in tension and not in compression.

Try this:

Just put the saw with the blade resting on the edge to be cut. Do NOT put any
downward pressure via the handle. Then slowly and lightly pull the saw towards you.
It will try to cut, but is ineffective. It may bounce along, skipity hop, but that is
expected. The teeth tend to dig in, but do not do so very much because there is
almost no downward pressure to the saw teeth. They will just leave a small kerf mark
on the edge. I often do this to make a starter mark.

Then do the same as the above, but with suitable [ ? ] downward pressure via the
handle. Now what happens? The teeth cut into the wood. How much it cuts into the wood
is a direct and proportional function of the force applied to those sharp teeth.
Western physics is identical to Japanese physics.

To reverse the stroke, move the saw forward with no downward pressure at all and
keeping the saw blade deep in the kerf.

Repeat as above until the saw cuts as much as you wish of the board.

I hope the above does not appear to be sophomoric to you. That is certainly not my
intention. Let's keep at this until you are fully satisfied with yourself - not us.

At this point I will stop and pitch it back to you for comments and questions.

Hoyt W.