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Ed Huntress Ed Huntress is offline
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Default securing lead metal to wood with methacrylate adhesive?

On Sun, 03 Mar 2013 14:39:34 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

John Sony fired this volley in news:kh0ate$85e$1
:

Static.


Hardly matters. Lead has very high lubricity and is also soft enough
that any adhesive strong enough to stick can also simply pull molecules
of the lead loose as the bond tears. RADICALLY roughing up the surface
can help a lot, but not much sticks forever to lead.

Regardless of what substance you use to seal the gaps, you need
mechanical fasteners to properly affix lead to a surface, if you have
moderate to high loads on the joint.

One reasonable exception is that pressure-sensitive adhesives, along with
cushioned backing between the lead and joint (double-stick foam tape),
result in relatively strong joints for very low-load apps.

It's strong enough to affix wheel weights -- but keep in mind that the
largest part of their working load is exerted against the flanged rim of
the wheel, and the tape is just keeping everything in place against the
flange.

Painting lead carries much of the same difficulties.

Lloyd


I have no idea how cyanoacrylate does, and that varies a LOT with the
formulation, anyway.

I can testify that Elmer's two-tube epoxy holds quite well. I've
epoxied lead keels into surf-fishing plugs and they've held up for
years. The lead is almost trapped by the epoxy, though, so it may just
be potting it, rather than adhering.

In any case, as you say, lead oxide is very weak and you have to
"scratch in" the epoxy, wet, to get a good physical bond. I don't know
about the chemical bond.

--
Ed Huntress