On Tue, 26 Feb 2013 20:27:38 -0800 (PST), finiteguy
wrote:

On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 11:13:03 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 26 Feb 2013 19:47:59 -0800 (PST), finiteguy

wrote:



So, I have a 30 year old linoleum floor and I want to change it. Are those new floating type interlocking floors hard to install?
There are 2 layers of linoleum. I could remove the top layer because the installer used adhesive around the edges. He did a crappy job 20 years ago. This is why I'd rather replace it myself.
The subfloor, is old tounge and groove pine or oak but its covered with the first coat of linoleum that is presumably all stuck down with glue on the entire floor area. I realize that my surfave has to be pretty smooth and flat for the job to come out decent.



Some can be. At least the cheap ones. Others are not.



I would like to do it myself. How do you do the edges near the wood work. Do you nail down the edges to constrain the floor?



Tell us the substrate under the present floor cover.
Remove the base board/cove moulding/quarter round/whatever and lay
the floor to within1/4" on all sides, then reinstall the trim. NO
nailing. If anything a bead of adhesive around the outer course - but
I'd even recommend against that. Use the stuff that's 3/8" (10mm )
thick or heavier - the 8mm stuff is CHEEP, even when it is not
inexpensive. It can be laid over straight t&g subfloor with the
recommended underlay film, or over existing linoleum. I've seen it
fone over indoor/outdoor type olefin carpet - but in my opinion that's
being just plane lazy (and stupid).