View Single Post
  #6   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
[email protected][_2_] trader4@optonline.net[_2_] is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,399
Default Proper way to pipe NG for outdoor BBQ

On Feb 24, 11:10*am, Mikepier wrote:
On Feb 24, 10:22*am, "
wrote:





On Feb 24, 10:08*am, "
wrote:


On Feb 24, 9:45*am, Mikepier wrote:


The previous owner in my house had put a *BBQ on the rear deck. The
BBQ is permanantly secured to the deck, and it is fed as follows: in
the basement there is black pipe fed to just outside the house *under
the deck. At that point it changes to flexible copper pipe (3/8" I
think) and fed directly to the BBQ.
Is this the proper way to pipe for a BBQ? *I am finishing my basement
and closing the walls, and I need to relocate the line and shut off
valve to a more accessible area in the basement like the laundry room.
And since I need to take the piping apart, I want to know if I can use
the same set up, or *should it be done a different way.


Also since the copper pipe under the deck has a lot of extra slack,
can I make the copper-to-black pipe connection inside the house rather
than outside under the deck, assuming I can use copper?


I think the short answer to your question is that it's
not code compliant, at least in most places. *What has
been and is code compliant just about everywhere for that application
is coated black pipe. *Some places also allow galvanized. *But more
commonly used is CSST, corrogated stainless steel tubing, which
is a lot easier, faster, to work with. Anything you use is supposed
to be min 18" deep. *IDK if all CSST is rated for underground
or they have ones that have different coating.


CSST is supposed to be installed by trained techs only and
most places would not sell it to DIY. *But in recent years I've
seen it in either HD or Lowes and I think they have training
book of some kind that's supposed to, well, train you....
The issue is it's a whole different system of attaching
fittings to the tubing. *Think of PEX as an example.


If it were my installation, I'd go with black pipe to the outside,
where you'd have a shutoff valve. *From there, CSST or
continue with coated/wrapeed *black pipe. *I've done black pipe
myself. *Never did CSST so can't advise on how tricky it is, is it
safe to DIY, etc.


I just took a look at the common type CSST that Lowes
sells, which is probably what you'd have to use it it's DIY. To use it
for underground, it has to be inside a conduit, so you could run PVC
to protect it. *But of course what codes
are adopted vary by area. *If it's an easy route, might be
just as easy to use coated black pipe.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Just to clarify, the existing piping does not go underground. Where it
exits the house is under a 4 foot high deck, and the copper piping is
fastened to the deck joists underneath, then comes up to the BBQ on
the deck.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Allow me to correct what I said earlier. After seeing CRNG's
post I did a bit more research. Here is what the National Fuel
Gas Code actually says about copper tubing:

"403.5.2 Copper and brass tubing. Copper tubing shall
comply with Standard Type K or L ofASTM B 88 orASTM
B 280.
Copper and brass tubing shall not be used if the gas contains
more than an average of 0.3 grains of hydrogen sulfide
per 100 standard cubic feet of gas (0.7 milligrams per 100
liters)."


The latter part is where some of the differences regarding
using copper come from by state and gas supplier. Apparently
most nat gas is cleaner today than it
used to be. In aeas where the suppy had hydrogen sulfide,
that reacted with the copper. But some areas may still not allow
copper because the code hasn't changed or they have
reason to believe the gas could contain too much HS.
The only way you'll
know for sure is to check with the local gas company or plumbing
code official. You could try googling for "copper gas pipe" with the
name of your gas company or state. And you may be perfectly
fine with your settup. For sure, if copper is allowed, it's going
to be the easiest method for you.

I would put an accessible shutoff valve in the basement near
where the pipe exits to go outside, though apparently that is
not a code reqt. Code does require a shutoff valve, seperate
from the appliance, within 6 ft. That could be just before the
quick disconnect, which is what people typically use.

Here is the IFGC so you can read for yourself:

https://law.resource.org/pub/us/code/states/nj_gas.pdf

Relevant section starts on page 64