"woodchucker" wrote in message
...
On 1/21/2013 8:37 PM, Artemus wrote:
"woodchucker" wrote in message
...
I uploaded pics of the 5 1/4 I finished today on the binaries.
About 2 days work. Flatening the sole took almost a day, it was very concave.
Wish
I had a surface grinder...

I also started work on a #4 from the 1800s. I refinished the tote and knob ,
cocobola I think.. I had to glue the tote back together first. The mouth was all
disfigured.. filed it straight across not a big deal since it was behind the
blade... No pics... I boxed it back up and left it for another day.. it needs
sand
blasting, so I can refinish the casting and get rid of the heavy rust.

Thinking of buying the HF sand blasting cabinet. I like refinishing tools, think
it
might pay.

Back to work tomorrow.

--
Jeff

I use electrolytic derusting on tools I refurbish as it doesn't remove any of
the base metal - only the rust.
Art



I have also done that, sometimes it doesn't work the way it has on previous parts,
so I get frustrated.

Have you had consistent results?

--
Jeff

I do now, but I learned a few things along the way.
1. An old "dumb" battery charger is far superior to the new ones with a uC in them.
2. Cathode placement and sq-in is important. In general more sq-in is better.
Placing a small cathode close to the part being derusted will result in good
rust removal near the cathode and poor to nil elsewhere. I use a 5 gal plastic
bucket with 2 curved 8x10 steel cathodes(ungalvanized). I recall someone
here using lead cathodes with good results but I haven't tried it.

A word of caution here. This process will remove the original japanning from hand
planes if you leave then in too long. For my setup 2hrs has been safe.
Art