On Jan 8, 4:40*pm, "benick" wrote:
"Robert Macy" wrote in message

...





how to repaire [and prevent future cracking] WITHOUT adding a big LUMP
to the seam?

The wall run is around 60 feet and 10 feet tall. the junction right in
the middle is wanting to crack. Trying to keep from forming lumps on
the wall, I cut down, used paper tape with a layer of mud under and a
layer on top. [Many may remember the problems I had posted earlier. I
tried to wet the tape first thinking of wall paper and how that
shrinks to fit, but wetting CAUSED the paper to 'slide' as it dried
and thus a crack, so in response I took all that out and did it again
with dry paper tape, which did work better. Only had the tiniest of
hairline crack form all summer long only about four feet of run on the
wall only.]

Well this winter as we isolated that section of the house - meaning
cooler temperatures and probably contracting drywall sheets, the
crack(s) opened up with a vengence! I mean over 3 mil separation!, but
worse the crack is the full floor to ceiling AND even now goes up
along a ceiling section which I never had trouble with before. I
suspect in the heat of the summer the crack will close back up, too.

Yes, I know houses change shape with time, but this seems too much to
be caused by 'settling'. My conjecture is is that this is more caused
by 'flexing'. Oh yeah, the seams are ON a stud(s), so there should be
no reason for movement there.

So, my question is
How do you repair/prevent cracking at drywall seams WITHOUT creating a
huge lump on the surface? I already have built up 1/8 inch thick to ++
on these stupid seams.

I have been in the drywall business for some 30 years so I'll toss out a few
suggestions...With a run that long you are probably crossing a structual
beam , post or whatever..Which is fine if you run the 12 foot sheets
horizontal and make sure the stress point is in the middle of the sheet but
I'm guessing the sheets are run vertical or if the sheets were run
horizontal there was a floor to ceiling butt joint put there..Either way
you're screwed so to speak and not even Durabond is gonna help..Here is what
I would do..

Cut the drywall back a few studs on either side of the crack and span the
stress point with new drywall..Mud the 2 new butt joints and paint..To much
work ??Construct a false beam by screwing 2X4s or whatever you want or have
laying around to the wall, sheetrock , add cornerbead and mud...To much work
?? Buy some trim boards and moulding and build a false beam over the
spot..Still to much work ?? Buy a 1x4 pine board , nail it to the wall
covering the crack and paint it...HTH...

Thanks for all the good suggestions. The sheets are horizontal. I
actually was originally leaning toward putting something that looks
like it 'belongs' on the wall at that location, but since had
forgotten. Think I got used to the 'clean' look.

What is irritating is is that *IF* the tape were 3, or even 4 inches
wide, I think the joint would have remained invisible. The tape simply
ripped loose on one side and then transferred the crack to its edge.
Where the tape did not come loose [perhaps less tension on it] the
surface remained crack free.

Temperature did have a lot to do with the crack formation. the room
originally set around 90 degrees [i'm old] but now is isolated and has
dropped to around 60 - that's when the cracks showed up with a
vengence. But, while I've been working in that room, the temp has gone
up to around 70 and some of the cracks have turned 'invisible' again.
But, must make certain that they cannot form, else they permanently
will show [until re-re-repair] Perhaps if I repair this wall in a COLD
room, then when the heat comes back, the tape and mud will take the
compression better and no crack will form? when it turns cold again.