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Morgans Morgans is offline
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Default Refinishing tips for a 70-year-old mahogany dining room set


"Sonny" wrote in message
...
I've been following this thread. I've been waiting for some feedback, to
further understand your pieces, condition of the pieces. So for, as best
I can tell, you still haven't cleaned the pieces nor performed a finish
test, to determine what finish might be on the pieces. Before a procedure
for refinishing can be suggested or determined, it is good to know more
about what's on the pieces, if possible.

Do the cleaning and testing and tell us what you've discovered.

Your description of the chairs, to date, to me, suggests the finish is a
toned lacquer, typical of factory applications. Your description of the
wear patterns lends to this conclusion. There may be a stain under the
(toned?) topcoat. If the chairs are made of maple, a conditioner may have
been applied prior to the staining and/or topcoating. Some manufacturers
(Hendron, Broyhill, etc.) still have the toned topcoat blends available
and you can get color-matched quantities for refinishing/touchups. On the
Refinishing Wizard link dpb gave - (link directly to the forum -
http://www.refinishwizard.com/phpbb/viewforum.php?f=1 ), I think (I'm not
sure) Bob (Boardman) may have more info about these companies and the
finishes. Also, your local good furniture outlet, often times, has access
to the furniture manufacturers, to know how/where to obtain the finishes
for repairs/touchups, and the like, for pieces that get damaged in
shipment. Your local furniture outlets consult with their local
refinishers and upholsterers, for repairing damaged furniture, and these
repairs and touchups are done frequently. I do such repairs and touchups,
this way, every now and then.

The chairs:
Whatever repairing/refinishing you decide to do, tackle one chair to see
what you'll be up against, for doing the others. If the one chair comes
out ok, then proceed with the others. If it doesn't come out well, then
you can always have someone/a pro do the job, anyway. It wouldn't matter
if he corrects the original "mess" or your "mess". You'll be charged the
same fee. Won't hurt, at all, for you to give it a try.

Once you 1) clean the chair, 2) repair whatever needs repairing. 3) Test
for the finish on it. If it is indeed lacquer, then the remaining fix is
much easier. If the finish is lacquer, then 4) wipe it down with lacquer
thinner. Now you're ready for either 5) a lacquer base stain (like a
TransTint dye stain using lacquer thinner as the solvent) or 6) a toned
lacquer application (TransTint dye does well for this toning. Do some
tests to get the color match. Otherwise, see if you can get some toned
finish from the company that made the chairs).

If the chairs don't have a lacquer finish on them, then one of, or a
combination of, the procedures, suggested earlier/above, would likely be a
better approach.... Do the testing for the present finish that's on the
chairs, before deciding what procedure to proceed with.

The table & Buffet:
...Doesn't sound like a too difficult of repair job. It would be nice to
see several good pics of the table, though, before making/committing to a
repair/refinish schedule. Same with the buffet piece. I would like to
better confirm, if possible, whether the pieces' tops are "solid wood" or
veneered.

For further research, you may want to search the
http://www.refinishwizard.com/phpbb/viewforum.php?f=1 site. There have
been similar threads (some with pics), there, and we have discussed these
very issues many times.

Sonny


I think the above advice is good, and I will add one more thing for
tightening up the chairs. Use epoxy. Two hour stuff, and thin it with
alcohol the bare minimum, or not at all to get it into the needle for
injecting. Even better, use heat instead of thinning it. It makes it flow
better. Epoxy fills gaps and does not swell. It also is strong as hell and
works without clamping pressure, or much, anyway. Protect the wood with a
tape job before injecting any epoxy, though. Epoxy sinks into grain if any
wood grain outside of the joint is exposed and will not allow stain or some
other finishes to stick to it later.
--
Jim in NC