On Dec 18, 10:23*am, T i m wrote:
On Mon, 17 Dec 2012 23:59:40 -0800 (PST), harry

wrote:
If money is a problem
It may only have some crap in it.

I don't think it is. I've been looking about on the Interweb and you
can go from 38 to around 100 for a Grundfos. I ran it past her and she
said she would be ok with any.

If you remove the pump head (the
four screws round the motor) you may be able to clean it up an free it
off. (Leaving the body in position)

Oh, ok. I might do that first.

You will need some form of jollop on the joint when you put it back.

Understood.

The bearings BTW are water lubricated.

Ah (makes sense).



The isolating valve(s) might well pass a bit but not usually enough to
stop you doing the work.

Ok.

They would only need changing if they leak from the valve spindle
after you have finished the job.

Right, well as I was working them round they did weep a bit but seemed
to *stop once I stopped turning them?

This doesn't happen often.They are
quarter turn *to operate.

Understood, although they can be turned right round can't they (I
think these did)?




Depending on the pipework layout, you might get some air in the sytem
& have to bleed a radiator or two.

Understood.

Thanks for the tips. ;-)

Cheers, T i m
*Usually the screw slot in the valve stem is lined up with the hole/
port inside the valve. So you turn it so that it is *at 90deg to the
pipe run to shut off.*And parallel with the pipe to open fully.

BTW. If a new pump becomes necessary, Check the face to face
dimensions ie between the flange faces that they are the same.
In days of yore there was some variations between pump manufacturers.
Nowadays they seem to be standard.

Be sure to clean up the flange faces on the valves to a good standard
without scoring/marking them.


When undoing the big nuts, try to avoid putting any strain on the
pipework. ie get someone to hold the pump body against the torque.