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harry harry is offline
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Default Replacing a Myson Unit 3 CH pump.

On Dec 17, 8:11*pm, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

I'm trying to help out the old lady we keep an eye on over the road. I
popped over just now and for some reason when straight to the
circulating pump. It's a Myson Unit 3 and if you undo the thumb knob
at the end of the pump spindle, pull it out and try to turn it, it
will turn one *way *just* (with my fairly big / strong hands) *but
not the other at all. Turn the power on and it still won't spin or
even try to (but you can feel the electromagnetic 'difference').

So, presumably we have a seizing pump and from a quick Google the
Grundfos 15-50 seems to be suggested as a replacement. However, they
aren't as cheap as the alternatives you can get from the sheds so I
wondered if you are just paying for the name?

http://preview.tinyurl.com/bugqeu4

Obviously speed is the essence here so something I could pick up
locally and *asap would be handy.

As an aside, I've been able to turn the isolation valves (good old
Leatherman PST II) and I've located a drain cock if it comes to it.

If the isolators do turn, might they not still isolate and if so is it
general practice to change them at the same time?

Cheers, T i m


If money is a problem
It may only have some crap in it. If you remove the pump head (the
four screws round the motor) you may be able to clean it up an free it
off. (Leaving the body in position)
You will need some form of jollop on the joint when you put it back.
The bearings BTW are water lubricated.

The isolating valve(s) might well pass a bit but not usually enough to
stop you doing the work.
They would only need changing if they leak from the valve spindle
after you have finished the job. This doesn't happen often.They are
quarter turn to operate.

Depending on the pipework layout, you might get some air in the sytem
& have to bleed a radiator or two.