On Sunday, December 2, 2012 6:34:51 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/2/12 2:33 PM, wrote:

On Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:08:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

If whatever you're applying on top will stick to what's beneath it, you



don't need to sand down to wood. With many woods, whatever is already on

the surface is better to paint over than bare wood, anyway.



In a question involving a different but similar project, *priming* over a clean, lightly sanded surface that still has paint is no problem, correct?





Not that I know of. Priming over a surface that has different,

contracting colors can help keep the top color even.

I used a foam roller. One coat with horizontal strokes, the second with vertical strokes and the third with horizontal strokes again, and I can still couldn't completely get rid of the "parquet-like" pattern. So I hope when it is painted over it will look ok.

Smooth is relative with paint, as well. I can't tell you how many times

I've sanded a drywall patch "perfectly smooth" only to see the borders

after painting. If there's any texture or artwork on top, it often hides

those imperfections. But a single color, smooth topcoat will often show

them.







The solution might be building up a couple layers of primer with flat

sanding in between coats. Good auto-body guys are maters of this.



I don't want to lose the original artwork completely, since it will be my guide when re-painting.



But as far as sanding *after* I finish re-painting. Camn this be done without having to worry about bleed over?





I don't know what "bleed over" means, and I'm certainly no paint expert.

But I would never sand the final, finish coat of paint. Maybe some do.

I'll be force to use brushes at certain points and assume I'll have to deal with some streaks as a result, so I was thinking a light sanding might help. (Someone even mentioned using #000 steel wool to "feather" any slight raises).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.