On Sunday, December 2, 2012 12:50:47 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Paining over lacquer with latex is just repainting, not restoration.

I'm not sure what you mean by that. As long as the surface is smooth the three different color matched latex paints I have, which are actually primer and paint in one, will be used on the entire side which was actually originally stenciled and sprayed. The base/background color, the second and then third color, followed lastly by the black outlines.

In fact, the most difficult part is the black outlines, which is really all I need to get right.

On Sunday, December 2, 2012 6:59:47 AM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
No need to sand off old paint as long as it is adhearing well. Sand to
develop tooth, and to feather out any edges, as any edges will show through
the primer, and your finish paint. You do not need a very coarse paper to
develop tooth - 400 grit is plenty coarse enough.Blending edges may likely
require a coarser paper though. Since you are using latex, which is as
thick as snot, you probably won't have to blend the edges down to a level
you cannot feel, but you likewise will not want to leave unfeathered edges
either.

Ok. I'm not 100 sure what you mean by "unfeathered edges". Is that were two different colors meet? I will obviously be using brushes. Foam for the main colors and a thick liner brush for the black outlines.

On Sunday, December 2, 2012 9:11:10 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
Lacquer is much, much thinner than latex, so you'll have lines at the
edges. Those can be sanded flatter (with a dual-action sander, or DA)
once the latex hardens completely. Then you can put a clear covercoat
over it all for a better look. I doubt you'll be able to match the
colors and glosses, so plan on painting the entire panel once you
start. Paint usually won't stick well to vinyl, either, so I'd avoid
that.

Ok. There is no vinyl involved in this project.

The paint I'm using is Valspar Interior Semi-Gloss, which is a paint and primer in one. I did ask for something to clear coat it with and was directed to get Valspar Clear Gloss Premium Enamel in a rattle can, which is supposed to seal and increase durability.

On Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:08:17 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
If whatever you're applying on top will stick to what's beneath it, you

don't need to sand down to wood. With many woods, whatever is already on
the surface is better to paint over than bare wood, anyway.

In a question involving a different but similar project, *priming* over a clean, lightly sanded surface that still has paint is no problem, correct?

Smooth is relative with paint, as well. I can't tell you how many times
I've sanded a drywall patch "perfectly smooth" only to see the borders
after painting. If there's any texture or artwork on top, it often hides
those imperfections. But a single color, smooth topcoat will often show
them.



The solution might be building up a couple layers of primer with flat
sanding in between coats. Good auto-body guys are maters of this.

I don't want to lose the original artwork completely, since it will be my guide when re-painting.

But as far as sanding *after* I finish re-painting. Camn this be done without having to worry about bleed over?

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.