On 11/28/2012 10:25 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

There are two types of transfer boxes. The one that connects on the
utility side requires utility company involvement and can be
expensive. If your transfer box is designed to work with an autostart
type generator and/or you plan to power the entire house, you need
this type.

Probably not for auto-transfer. The generator would have to supply the
total connected load.

The transfer switch below is more likely to be auto-transfer. It only
runs selected loads which a properly sized generator can supply.


The type that installs on the load side of the breaker box, is much
easier to deal with, does not require utility company involvement, and
is treated by the county as a secondary breaker box. Any competent
electrician can do the work. I don't recall the exact permit fees,
but I think they were about $150 as of a few years ago. Something
like this:
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200321033_200321033
http://www.reliancecontrols.com


A third approach is in Phil's post. You install a breaker in a top
position in the service panel and backfeed it from the generator. A
mechanical interlock on the door prevents the service disconnect and
generator breaker being on at the same time. Phil gave a source for the
interlocks. Some panel manufacturers also sell them.


I agree with others that a "suicide cord" is a real bad idea. For an
easy to disconnect connection a proper method is to use an "inlet" with
appropriate ratings:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/Secti...minisite=10251
The cord from the generator to the inlet is a normal extension cord with
the appropriate rating and ends. With a transfer switch or interlock,
the prongs of the inlet will never be live.