On Sun, 25 Nov 2012 10:10:50 +0000, Tim Watts
wrote:

HeyBub wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:

If you do go for hardwood, go for solid or engineered[1] with a thick
hardwood layer (at least 1/8") - this way any minor damage is not
really a problem and the floor can cope with about 2 full sandings in
its life, which should be many many decades.

On the other hand, you could simply replace the worn-out laminate with
another application. The stuff goes down - and comes up - quite easily.
I'll wager that replacing a laminate floor is cheaper and easier than
sanding and refinishing a hardwood floor surface.

I'm not so sure - but it's close. Depends partly what you are comparing -
good laminates are not that cheap (eg Pergo, which I have used in the past)

By "damp proof" I suspect you mean prevention of moisture rising from
below the concrete slab.

Yes.

There's an easy test for that involving taping
down a 2 ft' square of plastic film on the slab for a few days then
looking to see whether there's any water visible between the slab and the
plastic.

Indeed - I did that. In one case, I didn't even have to bother, the
previously laid lino did it for me as evidenced by the musty black patch.

If moisture IS present, you install a "vapor barrier' - essentially
plastic film - before installing the laminate underlayment then the actual
flooring.

If there is NO moisture found after the test, you can dispense with the
vapor barrier, although it certainly won't hurt to have one anyway.

Agree - the cost of a sheet of plastic is peanuts in the grand scheme.
Even better yet is something like "dri-floor" - or if you are using
12mm or thicker laminate, just the plastic waffle like used on
foundation exterior to keep water away from the concrete - basically
the same stuff they put on the back of the aspenite to make
dri-floor.. It allows the moisture that comes up through the concrete
to drain away or otherwize dissipate - which plastic sheeting does not
- and it is MUCH more resistant to damage.