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noname[_5_] noname[_5_] is offline
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Default GE Powermark Gold Loadcenter - ground bar vs. neutral bar

So since this is the only and main panel, I think the answer is the neutral bar and the ground bar are one and the same, yes?

On Sunday, November 18, 2012 12:22:39 PM UTC-5, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 11/18/2012 10:28 AM, wrote:

On Sun, 18 Nov 2012 06:54:30 -0800 (PST), noname


wrote:




In this load center are the ground bar and neutral bar interchangeable?




I have the model in the picture, he




http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/...8at94903AM.png



No,


Even in the main panel (Service disconnect enclosure) you should hook


the white wires to the isolated neutral bus(s) and hook the grounds to


the grounding buses.


If you ever decided to make this a sub, all you would have to do is


remove the bonding screw/clip and add a 4 wire feeder but most


importantly, it is a NEC violation to use the grounding bus for


neutral wires (250.6) because you are using the enclosure as a circuit


current path.




"250.6 Objectionable Current.


(A) Arrangement to Prevent Objectionable Current. The grounding of


electrical systems, circuit conductors, surge arresters,


surge-protective devices, and conductive normally non–current-carrying


metal parts of equipment shall be installed and arranged in a manner


that will prevent objectionable current."






You can get a ground bar kit for that panel and keep both neutral bars

but I have seen the bottom buss removed in order to use the left side as

a ground. What I've done in the past is to install can mounted ground

bars on either side connected together with a #4 bare copper

which will keep the wiring a lot neater but everything depends on the

local inspectors. Around here, the city engineering department has their

own stricter requirements than the NEC but the county is much less

strict in their interpretation. Oh yea, what's seen in my area is a #4

bare copper attached to the ground bar going to the ground rod and cold

water pipe then a bonding screw at the main breaker panel tying the

neutral bar/s to the can or a specially made jumper supplied by the

panel manufacturer. The inspector may want a piece of #4 bare copper run

to the ground bar from the neutral bar in addition to the factory

supplied bonding method. It really depends on the local inspectors. O_o



TDD