If you have to cover it and cannot work with the existing top, you might try screwing some oak or maple plywood to the top. Then drill your dog holes through the plywood and bench top. Screw it from underneath. Maybe drill oversize holes from underneath halfway through the top and then fit smaller screws into the holes you drilled.
On Thursday, November 15, 2012 11:41:15 AM UTC-6, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Someday...I hope to build a real classic workbench, ala Christopher
Schwarz, however, just now I wish to explore an intermediate
solution.
I picked up (dumpster diving) a commercial work bench top. It is
stamped "Hallowell Shop Top" It looks (end view) like several wood
strips glued up with the top and bottom surface coverd with a particle
board covering. If I go to the company website
http://www.hallowell-list.com/workbench-adjustable.php
they describe the top as "Layered highdensity particleboard offers
superior screw holding characteristics. The top and bottom layers are
sealed to resist conventional spills. The nonconductive, splinter-
proof top is 30 % harder than maple."
Cosmetically, the top I got looks terrible, however it is very flat,
heavy with no serious gouges. It measures 72" x 30" x about 2" and,
as I said, is heavy. I will probably reduce the width to 27" and hope
that this is solid through and through and not a torsion box.
So, here's my question. I want to cover the top and (if needed) the
bottom with a hardwood to make an attractive work surface. One that I
can re-flatten and renew as needed. My first impulse is to get some
maple flooring, however I am worried about wood movement. If I glue
the flooring to the top, it may break free. I could fasten one edge
and let the other one float, but I'm concerned that if I put dog holes
through the top and benchtop underneath, the top hole may become
offset from the substrate hole. Of course, I could be over-thinking
this whole issue.
I wish to hear recommendations for covering the benchtop and whether
or not I need a layer on the bottom.
Bill