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[email protected][_2_] trader4@optonline.net[_2_] is offline
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Default More on inverters

On Nov 11, 5:59*pm, wrote:
On Sun, 11 Nov 2012 01:04:22 -0800 (PST), harry





wrote:
On Nov 10, 7:09*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 01:28:48 -0800 (PST), harry


wrote:
On Nov 9, 12:36*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
harry wrote:
On Nov 9, 2:37 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
From a blog post:


---


Folks considering inverters should first check their automobile s
alternator capacity to figure out how much they can power long-term
from an inverter without discharging the battery.


Making rough calculations, your Mazda RX-8 probably came stock with
a 100 Amp alternator (at 13.8V) = ~1400 Watts, so anything much more
than that is overkill (not to include peak rating). You can get
aftermarket high output alternators, usually in the 160-200A range;
my older Toyota only has a 60A alternator.


But some of that power is needed to run the car (20-40 Amps), so for
a 100A alternator the best case is 1100W available for the inverter.
These output ratings are at normal driving engine RPMs and at idle
you are lucky to get 75% of the rating (and as low as 50%) so we re
now down to 800W (max, probably lower), which will provide you with
~7A @120V AC, enough to run the refrigerator (130-200W) and more..


You ll need at least a 750W inverter ( peak 1500W inverters typically
have a peak rating 2x the normal rating) to handle the starting surge
current for starting the refrigerator (~1200W) with the extra energy
coming from the battery regardless of how much power your alternator
produces.


To run a 3000W inverter continuously without discharging the battery
you need a 300A alternator, what you would typically find on a fire
engine.


---


Tch. What drivel.
Automotive alternators are not continuously rated.
You *only get the full output at fairly high engine revs anyway..


Can you work a pencil?


Depends on what you mean by "full output." Car alternators are connected to
voltage regulators which hold the output voltage (almost) constant,
irrespective of RPM.


Why is 20-40 amps needed to run the car?


A 2000-watt amplifier will use (at least) 170 amps. Add headlights, a/c fan,
cigarette lighter, and, of course, the engine, and you'll be above 200 amps.


What 2000 watt amplifier is this?
A car needs less than an amp for the ignition circuit.
If you have a diesel car,not even that.
You won't need anything else whilst you're trying to use your car as a
power source.


You are very uneducated. Best to keep silent.


Actually, an electronic ignition can require in excess of 5 amps. Some
as high as 7 and even more - and is dependent on engine speed.


A motorcycle twin electronic ignition runs 3 to 5 amps


TheMSD 6A performance ignition specs 1 amp per thousand RPM on a 4
cyl.


EFI pumps run 3.5 to 10 amps depending on system pressure and engine
HP. * The fuel injection system is USUALLY fused at 20 amps - so a
good guess is 12-15 amp operating current.


High Beam headlamps are generally 60 watts each - so 10 amps for the
pair, add another 10 amps for all the other lights in the car, not
counting fog or aux driving lamps. Add another 3.5 nominal for the A/C
clutch, and about 10 to 15 for the radiator cooling fan, and 7 to 10
for the heater fan.


So you're going to be running all this stuff whilst the car's parked
on the driveway "generating power"? *Heh heh, you ARE in cloud cuckoo
land.
Better have the demisters on too. And the interior light.


*Someone asked why a car needs such a big alternator.
The 2000 watt stereo won't be run either.

BUT - the fuel injection and the ignition will - as well as the field
of the alternator.


That is by far the best example of a good size load that is present
when the car is running. Harry will probably try
to tell us that isn't real or necessary either.