On 10/26/2012 8:22 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/25/2012 10:12 PM, Bill wrote:

I have several pages of notes and I definitely learned a lot from this
thread!

To stiffen up that casework you posted a model of, capture your vertical
dividers in dadoes instead of using butt joints with biscuits.

Thank you for looking at my drawing!

Since I lack a biscuit jointer and a TS, I was considering Lew's idea of
"fitting in" pieces of 1/4" plywood between vertical panels (attached to
the top and bottom) and on the ends. That would be largely equivalent to
biscuit joinery, wouldn't it? The top and bottom would also be "banded"
at the ends (resting on or in a rebate, respectively).



Also capture the ends of the top and floor in dadoes in the top and
bottom of the end panels ... that will strengthen the casework further,
as well as hide the ends of those components.

Yes, that may be more attractive than just a band/rebate!


(When you really must stiffen this type of casework to withstand hard
use, drill holes and glue in dowels into each of the joins, thusly):


https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...1917253 74850


It's nice to see that you practice what you preach!



Dowels can a contrasting wood in an attractive pattern if need be, or
the casework top can be an secondary wood, with the real top attached to
it.

This method is an example of an old cabinetmaker's principle used to
build casework that will not rack of sag that, paraphrased, goes like
this:

"If a case part joins another at a corner, dovetail it; if one part
meets along another's length, use multiple through tenons."

You can get much the same effect with dadoes and dowels, or use loose
tenons, thusly:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/MSBDTCase3.JPG

While you're in the planning stages you may want to contemplate using a
separate top of primary wood, and putting the unit on a frame base,
perhaps slightly smaller than the actual casework foot print ... you
will likely find that sitting the casework directly on the floor, as
drawn, is going to be unsatisfactory in the long run.

I see your point. I suppose I could use a hard wood like maple for the
frame base. I wouldn't expect Cherry ply to possess "compression
strength"; I think it might crumble. Of course, Cheery lumber would
probably work very well (if I could locate some 4/4). Is this thinking
correct?



Thank you for the thoughtful lesson!

Bill