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[email protected] clare@snyder.on.ca is offline
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Default Boring an engine with a hone?

On Mon, 22 Oct 2012 18:59:40 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Oct 2012 21:33:50 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:


At the machine shop where I once worked, we would reline cylinders used to
extrude melted plastic for record (remember them?) production. Anyway, the
stainless steel liner was pressed in the cylinder, welded, then honed to
size, don't remember how much honing but I'm estimating at least 0.1" or so.
Anyway in those days I had a dirt bike (RM250) that I bored out with the
hone, worked great as far as I could tell. I honed it to 0.0005" larger
than the minimum size.

This hone was the type with the rack and pinion feed, positive feed feeling.
While honing you could feed taper in the bore, out of round, and when it
cleaned up, nothing like those springy break cylinder hones.

Anyway, remember my economy car with the bad engine problem, the 2002
escort? Instead of spending $4k on having a mechanic replace the engine
with a Jasper remanufactured engine, I'm considering getting something else
but working on the Escort. So I'm thinking pull the engine, checking out
the damage and probably doing an overhaul myself. Since the valve seat
destroyed #4 cylinder I'm thinking get a remanufactured head with the valve
seat dropping problem fixed and honing out the cylinders for some pistons of
the minimum size that the cylinder walls clean up.

So, should I get a good home (Lisle 15000 maybe?) and hone the cylinders to
size or is their some benefit to having the cylinder bored at a machine
shop? Depending on how everything else goes, I may just get a rebuilt or
remanufactured engine and swap it myself, spending $2k (maybe less) on an
engine is a lot better than $4k for an engine in this older car. It may be
good for another 5 or 6 years if I can keep clear of the deer!

Thanks!

RogerN

I'd have to ask. How much does it cost to have a stripped block bored?
What does the "Lisle 15000 maybe" cost and how often do you plan on
using it? Do you have the measuring equipment necessary to accurately
"bore" a block?

My own experience in engine rebuilding is that it is generally cheaper
to take the stripped block to a shop top have the work done.

The lisle 1500 and a set of 80 and 320 grit stones is going to cost
the better part of $180, and one mis-step and the stones are history.

Ballanced against about $130 to have the job done right by a good
shop. Then he still needs a good bore guage or equivalent micrometers
to do the measuring.