On Sun, 21 Oct 2012 20:32:24 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Oct 21, 8:26Â*pm, "Terry Coombs" wrote:
"jon_banquer" wrote in message

...
On Oct 21, 7:34 pm, "RogerN" wrote:









At the machine shop where I once worked, we would reline cylinders used to
extrude melted plastic for record (remember them?) production. Anyway, the
stainless steel liner was pressed in the cylinder, welded, then honed to
size, don't remember how much honing but I'm estimating at least 0.1" or
so.
Anyway in those days I had a dirt bike (RM250) that I bored out with the
hone, worked great as far as I could tell. I honed it to 0.0005" larger
than the minimum size.

This hone was the type with the rack and pinion feed, positive feed
feeling.
While honing you could feed taper in the bore, out of round, and when it
cleaned up, nothing like those springy break cylinder hones.

Anyway, remember my economy car with the bad engine problem, the 2002
escort? Instead of spending $4k on having a mechanic replace the engine
with a Jasper remanufactured engine, I'm considering getting something
else
but working on the Escort. So I'm thinking pull the engine, checking out
the damage and probably doing an overhaul myself. Since the valve seat
destroyed #4 cylinder I'm thinking get a remanufactured head with the
valve
seat dropping problem fixed and honing out the cylinders for some pistons
of
the minimum size that the cylinder walls clean up.

So, should I get a good home (Lisle 15000 maybe?) and hone the cylinders
to
size or is their some benefit to having the cylinder bored at a machine
shop? Depending on how everything else goes, I may just get a rebuilt or
remanufactured engine and swap it myself, spending $2k (maybe less) on an
engine is a lot better than $4k for an engine in this older car. It may be
good for another 5 or 6 years if I can keep clear of the deer!

Thanks!

RogerN
If you decide to rebuild the engine yourself you are much better off

bringing the block to a quality automotive machine shop and letting
them clean, bore and hone it. It's not very expensive and if they are
a good shop they can do a far better job than you can.

Â* And you're a dick .

Â* Roger , get your hands on a rigid Sunnen hone , one that has the rack type
feed you mentioned above . I've bored several Harley cylinders with mine
with great results . You've got the advantage of a lump of metal that you
won't have to bolt into a fixture to hold it still ... plus the fact that
you can hone to a fit that meets *YOUR* standards instead of whatever mood
the boring machine guy happens to be in on that day . I'm bettin' that he
ain't going to take the time to fit your pistons individually to .00075" . I
will agree with Yonnie that you might want to have a shop clean it in their
dip tank , unless you want to do like I did with my wife's car motor and
take it to the car wash . BTW , from your comments above you apparently have
the skills to do this job yourself ... and a 50/50 mix of diesel/kero and
ATF makes a great honing fluid . And don't forget the post-hone washout !!
--
Snag

**** you asshole. I'm bored and honed more blocks than you ever will
in a commercial automotive machine shop. If you know what to look for
and how to manage the job a boring machine like a Rottler and a Sunnen
CK-10 can do a much better job. There is no real money to be saved
doing it yourself.
Particularly at the cost of a Sunnen rigid hone. And the minimum 2
sets of stones required to do the job properly.