Thanks for all the replies.

After looking up a bridle joint, that is the correct description of what I
had in mind when I said "tongue and groove". It seems like it will be
relatively easy to make and strong with the large amount of surface area for
glue.

Todd

"Mike G" wrote in message
...
If I had a biscuit jointer I'd use that for the frame and plywood for the
door.

If I didn't have a biscuit jointer I could use half lap, bridle, M&T,
stub
M&T, or spline joints for the door frames, Then still go for the dado ply
panel.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"todd" wrote in message
...
I'm in the process of making a shop cabinet on top of which will be the
resting place of my planer. This is my first attempt at cabinet
construction. I'm mostly following along with "Building Your Own
Kitchen
Cabinetry" by John Paquay to guide me through the process. I'm doing
this
not only to get the planer off of the top of the cardboard box it came
in,
but also to practice my cabinet-making skills in case I ever get the
idea
that my wife will let me build kitchen cabinets. I have the carcasses
constructed (I'm guessing that was the easy part), and now I'm thinking
about doors and drawers. I'm making the cabinet as a whole out of two
18"
wide cabinets. One cabinet will just have a big door for adjustable
shelves, and the other cabinet will be all drawers. My question regards
the
door. My preference would be to use a stile and rail router bit set and
use
a plywood insert for the panel. However, $50-100 for a stile and rail
bit
for a one-off door isn't making me happy. My little woodworking brain
tells
me that a few options are

1. Use a tongue and groove construction for the door frame. Use a dado
to
cut the slot for a plywood panel.
2. Make a solid door either out of solid wood or perhaps edge-banded
plywood.

How would you make a door if you were short a stile and rail set?

todd