"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...

On Thursday, October 11, 2012 7:18:28 AM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
On 10/11/2012 12:34 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: On Wednesday, October
10, 2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote: I'm just a
hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much budget
constrained. For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carbide
Finishing 40 Tooth Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too
badly. Rockler currently has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut
... $40 #47943 How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades
make? Speculation is encouraged. Thx, Will You will find that ripping
(cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade.
Any serious WWkr with a TS should at least have a rip and cross cut blade.
I use Freud blades quite a bit. I think maybe a more expensive version,
that sounds like a heck of a deal. +1 I use a Forrest WWII for all
critical projects crosscuts (combination blade, but still cuts sterling
crosscuts), and a Freud Glue-Line-Rip for all critical project rips to
dimension after jointing. -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

When those glue line rips first came out I did seem to have some success.
With my saw stop I have that fence dialed in with just a few thou lean out
on and I still get teeth marks on my rips with that blade or any thin kerf
actually. I checked for run out and there is esentially none. I actually
returned a glue line saying it was flawed and was just going to get my money
back but the sad looking Woodcraft owner got me to agree to swap for another
one. I went back the next day and bought a full kerf ripper and have glass
like rips ever since. I guess I am just a softee. Still have the glue line
but it has worked its way to the back of the stack on the blade nail next to
the saw.
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I have been using a full kerf glue line rip for some time. Works great. They
do make that blade in two thicknesses.