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Crown molding question
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Michael Karas[_2_]
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Posts: 47
Crown molding question
[This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to the
cited author.]
In article 260920121050524858%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone. ca,
says...
I screwed up cutting the last piece of a particular profile for a
repair job, and the client has no more scrap long enough. Can't find
the exact profile for the 15" piece I need.
This stuff is solid maple with a light stain, and while I can find a
very close match, it's out by just enough to be really noticeable.
I'm hoping to avoid eating the cost of replacing the room's worth, at
over $10/lf... So I have to ask:
Has anyone successfully joined two lengths of the stuff? Scarf joint?
Lapped splice? All suggestions welcome.
Joints in molding are routinely required when the lengths needed in the
room are longer than the lengths of material from the source supplier.
So it is practical to consider that a similar type joint can be made for
a short length. Joints are often made by cutting the material at a 45
degree angle from the flat so that they overlap with the next piece in
the installation. (This is in contrast with s straight butt joint that
has faces that are perpendicular to the wall).
Two things that you could consider...
1) Pre gluing the short pieces together in the 45 degree joint before
trying to install on the wall so that the joint stays closed up and
keeps alignment.
2) You could consider making a small triangular block of wood such as
pine that you fit behind the crown molding up into the corner between
the wall and ceiling to place behind the joint area. Fasten the pine
piece to the wall and then fasten the molding into this backer piece to
help keep the joint closed up.
--
Michael Karas
Carousel Design Solutions
http://www.carousel-design.com
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