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john B. john B. is offline
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Default Freakin trailer brakes

On Thu, 16 Aug 2012 17:25:37 +1000, John G
wrote:

John B. formulated on Thursday :
On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 19:38:19 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 20:27:20 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Richard" wrote



If it's more than a single axle, remember, they are to be wired in
parallel, not series.

A battery and controller sitting by the wheel might help.

Wire it up and squeeze the tit.
See it the brake moves.

Check them all, If they all work, back track through the wiring to the
connector.

DON'T use the trailer frame for ground!

And a circuit tester with a light works better than volt meter.

Thanks for the tips. I woulda got the ground thing wrong.

Steve

Commercial trailers have been using the frame for ground for decades -
and it works if it is done PROPERLY. Harder to screw up a fround WIRE
than a frame, but also easier to damage the WIRE. Six of one, half
dozen of the other, in my books. I'll stick with a "chassis ground" -
same as used on the tow vehicle, and same as has been used for
decades.


Don't most automobiles uses a "frame ground" :-)
Cheers,
John B.


No.


Most don't? Funny, I've worked on vehicles ranging from a 1937
Chevrolet through British and Japanese autos as well as trucks up to
50 tons and a mess of heavy equipment - bull dozers, earth movers,
cranes, etc. And I'll be damned if I can remember one that didn't use
the frame, or in the case of these new fangled things without a frame,
body, ground.

Cheers,
John B.