Thread: DRO repair
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DoN. Nichols[_2_] DoN. Nichols[_2_] is offline
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Default DRO repair

On 2012-08-14, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:
On 8/14/2012 1:12 AM, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
On 14 Aug 2012 04:20:04 GMT, the renowned Winston
wrote:

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 14:36:32 -0400, Tom Gardner wrote:

My "UNIQ" 2-axis DRO display has failed. The vendor says the power
supply is bad and can't get a replacement. They have offered a direct
replacement "UNIQ" for $295 or a "JENIX" display for $200.

I have asked them to return the unit. Does anyone know anything about
these? Would the PS be fairly easy to repair? I'll know more when I
get it back and apart.

http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/pr...ategoryID=6219


[ ... ]

80mA (400mW) doesn't sound like nearly enough. Maybe that's the power
_output_ for the scales.

The "Sino" lathe DRO I have contains a small more-or-less open-frame
5VDC switching supply, just 5V out. about 140 x 60 x 40mm. I would
expect yours is quite similar. Similar 25VA units are around $20 qty
1.


[ ... ]

Imagine if it only needs 5v, I have plenty of old computer PS's, any
reason I couldn't cob something external using one of those?


Depends on the PS (and particularly the age of the PS). Some of
the older ones required a minimum load on the 5V to be able to also
deliver a regulated load on the other voltages -- especially the +12V to
spin up the disk drives). If you have one of those, you may need to add
a power resistor as a dummy load to assure good regulation.

Other than that there is the fact that will almost certainly not
fit inside the housing -- but if you replace the AC connector with a
multi-pin one which is right for the voltages you need, you should be
fine. The typical older power supply for a PC provides +5V, +12V (lots
of current for those two), and -12V (just to complete the RS-232
voltages back then. Newer ones also produce something like +3 VDC to
power the CPU chip, and often have a pair of pins which you have to
connect together to turn on the power supply -- if the computer has a
front panel button for power on/power off, instead of a bigger switch in
the back or on the side.

So -- first determine what voltages you really need. +5 is
almost a given, +12 maybe for some circuits. Maybe a weird voltage to
power the plasma display (I think it looks like it has a plasma disply,
based on the one which I found elsewhere last night)-- unless it is using
a DC-DC converter to develop that from 5V or 12V. If it is, that could
be what really failed -- if the LEDs light, but the digits don't.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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